Chiloe Island, blog 5

Paul and I were up at 5:30 at Rafa’s suggestion to see if there were Pudu on the lawn or grounds of the lodge but to our disappointment, none of the short, chunky deer were to be seen. We walk some paths and roads in hopes of espying a Darwin fox, an endangered species due to habitat destruction and dogs. Another reason the thousands of acres that Patrisio and his family are conserving is so important, there are no dogs here either. We see fox scat and tracks that are fairly fresh so we know that the rare animal is near. Darwin fox are only found on Chiloe island and in one National Park on the mainland of Chile.

We return to the lodge after eight o’clock for breakfast and then Patrisio drives us to the head of a hiking trail to save us some time although we will walk back to the lodge from this point. While driving the narrow, tree-lined road the three guys exclaim as a female pudu dashes across the road in front of the car. I missed the little doe since I was not looking out the front of the car. Oh well, you can’t win them all.

Patrisio lets us out at the trail head and waves goodbye as he drives away. The three of us step off the dirt road into the forest and begin our last hike in this special place. Although the trail we hiked yesterday was terrific this trail feels and looks almost magical. Part of the reason is that the sunlight is filtering through the trees and the vegetation takes on an ethereal glow. The False Beech trees in particular are bathed in the stunning light and they are just breath-taking. I try my best to capture the essence of our surroundings in a photo but it proves to be impossible.

We have a close encounter with a Huit Huit which literally follows us down the trail at one point. Our companion puts on the same show as the one we saw yesterday. Scratching furiously in the loose forest litter while making sure he keeps us in his sight. Paul and I are chuckling over the comical bird when Rafa quietly gets our attention. We look down and nearly at Rafa’s feet is a Chacao peering curiously at these intruders into his domain. Wow, I can’t believe this. Two birds that are difficult to see and they show up on their own in plain sight. Hmm, maybe my description of this trail being almost magical should be revised and the almost taken out of that sentence.

We walk to the river, the waters brown with tannin, and a Ringed Kingfisher is perched on a dead branch on the river’s edge. As our encounter with the forest birds on the trail, the Kingfisher seems to have little concern that three humans are standing a few yards away. The bird is bathed in sunlight and it willingly poses for several photos. Returning to the open road and bright sunlight we find ourselves visited by the pesky horseflies but they can’t dampen our enthusiasm for the incredible hike we just experienced.

When we arrive at the lodge, Pedro has a box lunch prepared for us but since it is nearly lunch time we opt to eat on the terrace before we leave. The sandwiches are huge so Paul and I split one and place the other sandwich in our pack. Supper is taken care of tonight. Once we have eaten, we fetch our luggage and place it in the van with Rafa telling us to make sure we have everything. It isn’t like we can come back and retrieve a forgotten item very easily. Rafa drives the white van to the dock as Patricio is already at the boat.

Oh boy, we carry our luggage to the dock and waiting for us is the worst swarm of horseflies we have encountered. Once we have all our stuff loaded, Rafa laughs out loud and says that he has forgotten his birding scope. That is too funny. Rafa returns to the van and drives away. Holy Smokes, these insects are relentless so Paul and I zip up our coats and put our hoods up. There is a father and son, friends of Patrisio, on the dock dressed in t-shirts and shorts. I see the young boy nudge his dad, and incline his head at these weird tourists. I look at the cute kid and then start shooing the flies that are buzzing around us. The kid laughs in understanding and demonstrates how he uses the plastic bucket he is carrying to swing the pail at the flies that are bugging him.

Rafa returns, scope in hand, and we all settle into the boat. The lake surface hardly has a riffle on it, quite a difference from when we came yesterday. I am sad to leave here and if we ever return, I certainly would spend more time at this beautiful sanctuary. Once we reach the opposite shore, we thank Patrisio and tell him how much we enjoyed his wonderful place. Rafa goes to get the car and Patrisio waits just offshore until he sees his friend driving out into the road. He gives a final wave goodbye and motors back towards his beautiful home.

We meet several cars on the narrow, gravel road and all of them are taking more than their share of the road and driving too darn fast. One pickup begins to fishtail as the drivers is speeding down a hill towards us. Good grief. He gets the truck under control thank heavens.

We stop at Chonchi to look at another wooden church. This is a Jesuit church, which is more simple in its decor than the Franciscan church we visited in Castro. Personally, I prefer the simple Jesuit church. Chonchi is also famous for the unique shingles that are used on the sides of many of the houses here.

We arrive in Castro and go to our Palifito where we deposit our luggage in the same room, we had two nights ago. Paul also collects our laundry which cost ten dollars for the 2.5 kilo we left with the staff. I like that they charge by the kilo and not by the article of clothing.

We hustle back downstairs and meet Rafa who suggested we go visit the wooden boat builders. Rafa speaks to a young woman who goes to talk to her Grandfather, (I think), then returns and says that it is okay for us to look around. I trail Paul and Rafa down to where three boats are in various stages of production. There is a young man working on top of one boat and he graciously agrees to visit with us. Paul and Rafa ask him a variety of questions and we learn a lot about the family business which is in its fourth generation. The boats are made of Cyprus and they make boats for fishermen and also build ferry boats. There are four men who construct the boats and there are four boats in production at one time. It takes them around five months to complete a boat and the cost for a boat is 150,000 which includes the engine and everything else. Paul and I think the price very reasonable considering these boats are built the old-fashioned way. As we walk by the ferry-boat that looks as though it is nearing completion, we notice a man underneath the boat, laying on his back, and sanding the bottom of the boat with a small hand sander!

We walk back to the Palifito and say goodnight to Rafa. Paul and I decide to buy a couple of beers from the Palifito stock to go with our half sandwich and apple. The beers are craft beers and pricy, four dollars each, and we don’t really like them as the beer is fizzy and bitter. Some of that pricey beer ends up being poured down the drain. We decide to walk a couple of blocks to a small grocery store the Palifito receptionists directs us to as we are craving an ice cream bar. With no dogs in sight we make it to the very simple market in time to see them unloading a quarter of beef from a truck and carry it into the store by hand. We peruse the ice cream treat offerings in the freezer and pay for our choices at the counter. The ice cream is just what we needed to kill the after taste of the bitter beer.

This evening as the sun is sinking toward the horizon, I go out to the deck to enjoy the scenery on our last night on the island. There are incredible colors reflected in the water and Black-necked Swans glide over the array of colors. It is a bit surreal and I feel as though I am looking at a painting. What a gorgeous ending to the day.

There is no reason to get up early this morning as Rafa is taking us to a market here in Castro and it doesn’t open until nine o’clock. Paul and I had most of our stuff packed last night so there isn’t much to do after we eat breakfast. I do email Dr. Amy since I do not have an email from her updating me on Taz. I tell her that we will have email tonight and early tomorrow morning but after that we will be off the grid for the rest of our trip.

We are at the market shortly after nine and a lot of the booths aren’t even open yet. Rafa tells us that in Chile people stay up late and are in no hurry to get started in the morning. Everything from vegetables, fruits, homemade liquor or cider, handcrafts, flowers and fish are being sold here. There is plenty of photo ops, that is for sure. When we walk to the part where the fish is being sold there are a few dogs wandering around. One dog is licking some fish that are sitting in a big tray on the floor in front of a stall. Yikes. The fish have ice on them so I think the dog is after the moisture. The woman who is arranging fish in this booth, comes out and shoos the dog away then drags the big pan of fish into the cubicle. Oh well, that fish is going to be cooked right? Paul decides to buy some blueberries from one vendor as we are leaving the colorful market. We return to the Palifito to get our luggage, load up and leave Castro and our Palifito behind. We really enjoyed staying here.

We make a stop on our way to the ferry which is in the fishing village of Dalcahue. There is another Jesuit church here that is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. We take a quick look inside and see the familiar sky painted on the ceiling and the impressive wooden pillars. Rafa is staying with the car and luggage, while Paul and I go to walk along the water front. It is just a beautiful day and the wooden boats that ply the water make for a very picturesque scene. There are Kelp gulls standing around on some of the boats plus we see a family of Flightless Steamer ducks paddling around some of the anchored boats. Tourists including us are strolling along the board walk just enjoying the atmosphere.

Paul and I return to Rafa and the car and we continue on our way. Rafa informs us that he is taking us to a farm where the couple has been doing Agri tourism for twenty-two years. That is darned innovative. The Maldano’s cook a meal for large groups known as curanto which involves layering different kinds of meats and seafood on top of coals in a pit then covering the food with rhubarb leaves and letting the concoction cook for hours. Unfortunately, three people don’t constitute a large group but we are still served a scrumptious meal. We were served baked chicken and carrots, huge lima beans, bread, potatoes, and salad with rhubarb for dessert. Maria Luisa, her daughter and daughter-in-law have prepared our meal in an old-fashioned wood stove. Hardy, Maria Luisa’s husband, is recovering from health problems and was napping so we didn’t get to meet him. Maria Luisa was a vivacious and animated woman and we enjoyed our short visit here. Of course, Rafa had to translate for us.

We arrive at the ferry station and are soon parked behind a big semi on the ferry. We go up to the top for the ride back to the mainland. The sea lions are still piled on the red buoys, there are gulls and cormorants too. A flock of stately Peruvian Pelicans fly close to the ferry as we are pulling away from Chiloe Island. I loved our time on this enchanting island and would seriously consider returning someday. Nancy