The Mara part 14 206

Last night after dinner, Kyle and Laura asked Paul and me if we would mind sharing our vehicle with the German couple tomorrow morning and of course we said the shared game drive was fine. The four of us converge by the dining tent at six a.m. this morning where David and Kapen are waiting with the Cruiser.

The Mara is cloaked in a heavy fog this morning which is going to make game viewing quite difficult. The haze is so thick that even sound seems to be muffled adding to the mystique of the eerie morning. On the hillside we are able to see ghostly shapes of giraffe and the vague outline of the gentle giants is surreal to say the least.  On the ridge line a mixed herd of impalas and topi are barely visible, and we must identify the antelope by the shape of their horns. A warthog is sitting near the track and for once it doesn’t take off running, maybe because it can’t see more than a few feet ahead and it is too dangerous to run blindly into the fog bank.

Fog enveloped giraffe

Impalas and a few Topi

Warthog sitting tight in the fog

The sun begins to thin the stubborn fog after an hour or so, and when we drive on top of the hills there is actually blue sky. As soon as we descend into the valleys however the fog still covers much of the landscape wrapping itself around the trees and lying thickly in low spots. As we get closer to our destination, the Mara River which is the northern boundary of the Mara North Conservancy, the sunshine is slowly but surely burning the thick fog away.

David and Kapen point to a lioness that is striding through the wet grass where she is heading for some nearby bushes. Since there are several vehicles in the area, either parked or driving slowly around the clumps of bushes, we aren’t surprised when David tells us that the Acacia pride is sheltering in the thickets. The lioness finds a suitable bush and walks into the leafy shelter and lies down. David begins to circle the various patches of brush and we can see bits and pieces of lions as they lay sleeping inside the thick foliage. One lioness hasn’t bothered to find cover and is lying flat on her side in the grass sound asleep.

Lioness of the Acacia pride

Sleeping in the open

Since it appears there will be no activity from the lazy pride, David moves on to see if they can find the two adult males that belong to the Acacia pride. David and Kapen must have talked to other guides as they drive to a specific place where the bushes are very thick. David drives slowly in and around the scrub covered ground and on a second pass we can just see the mane and chest of one of the males. There is even less to see of the second male as he is lying deeper in the cover of the bush. We also see a bristly patch of hair that is part of what is left of the warthog. David tells us that the females killed the warthog but the males took possession of the kill and drug the carcass into the safety of the bushes, keeping the whole hog for themselves. Our guides also say that the Acacia pride had 22 cubs this year but the cubs contracted mange and only eight cubs survived!

Sun trying to burn off the fog

A variety of grazers glowing in a patch of sunlight

When we leave the lions we drive into an area of the conservancy where flat-topped Acacia trees among others dot the beautiful grassland as far as the eye can see. The scene that is spread out before us is just breath-taking as the sun lights up a variety of plains animals while remnants of fog and a darker sky are in the background. Wow, an indelible image to say the least. As we drive through what almost seems a dreamscape, there are two young bull giraffe mock fighting. They sidle up to each other and then take aim at one another by swinging their long necks and landing a blow on their opponent with their heads. It would be the human equivalent of using a mace I guess. I saw a program that says a mature bull giraffes’ head weighs fifty pounds so imagine the damage that could cause your enemy!

The nearest giraffe winding up to strike a blow on his playmate

The two got tired of play fighting and struck a beautiful pose for me.

We can see a sliver of the Mara River beyond a large herd of impalas that are glowing in the bright sunlight. Even from this distance we can tell that a lot of water is rushing between the rivers’ banks. When we arrive at the river all of us climb out of the Cruiser to gape at the rushing water and the huge raft of hippo that are mostly submerged in the muddy water. David begins to unload everything needed for our breakfast which we will eat while overlooking this wild scene. Kapen walks with us tourists along the edge of the river, but not too close to the edge, as we look down at the active hippos.

The Mara River in the distance

David setting out breakfast

A few of the hippos in the Mara River

The current is really strong in the main part of the river and even along the bend of the river where the hippos are situated; the current is still tugging on the massive animals. We watch as two youngsters emulate the adult gaping as they touch muzzles, which I assume is a pecking order thing among adults. We witnessed this gaping lip to lip contact several times among the mature hippos and it didn’t look to be a friendly encounter!

Two youngsters copying the adults

I’m pretty sure this isn’t a friendly encounter between these adults!

Paul and I watch a monster hippo as it appears to be trying to hold a smaller hippo underwater. It suddenly dawns on us that perhaps the hippos are mating. Since Kapen has left us to help set out our meal, Paul wanders over to the guides to report what we have witnessed. Sure enough, David tells Paul that in order to mate; the female hippo must lie flat on the river bottom in order for the male to be able to mate with her. The problem seems to be that this female isn’t really ready to mate and hence continues to battle her way to the surface. Facing off with the big male in a gaping battle is hopeless for the feisty female. Finally in frustration the small female retreats to the middle of the river, where she settles in a heavy current that she must fight relentlessly in order to maintain her position there in order not to be swept downstream. The male follows her but he too ends up putting all his effort into staying put! The two were still struggling in the forceful current while we ate breakfast and after we left and I can’t imagine how long their strength will hold up in that situation.

Large male trying to submerge a female to mate with

The female ( on the left) situated herself in a strong current. The male is to the right

Eating breakfast by the river was quite different from our other peaceful breakfasts in the bush. The sound of the rushing river, mingled with the constant grunting and complaining of the bloat of hippos made for a noisy breakfast but we sure had a variety of behavior from the blubbery hippos to watch while we enjoyed our meal.

A gaping hippo

Another hippo gaping as it came up out of the water. Look at those teeth!

Kapen loved to have his photo taken.

Once we have left the river, David drives back to where the Acacia pride was lounging to see if anything has changed. They are still sleeping in the shade of the bushes so we begin our drive back to camp. David drives through the valley where we found Amani yesterday and Kapen spots the cheetah lying in the shade of a short tree. Amani raises her head to look at us and then lashes her tail as if to relate her irritation that these pesky tourists are staring at her again. We can’t drive closer as the ground between Amani and us is very marshy but we feel privileged to have seen the cheetah four days in a row! There are a few elephants about not far from the lounging cheetah and we stop to watch one spray himself with mud. We also marvel at the brilliant red and blue color of an agama lizard that is perched in the top of a small bush.

The lions are still brushed up

Our old friend Amani

Mud bath

Agama lizard bush sitting

We make it back to camp an hour before lunch and I remind myself at how hard our guides, particularly the driver, works on these game drives. We have been gone for six hours this morning! The guides are always cheerful and try to answer any questions we have, while searching endlessly for wild animals. You can’t help but admire them.

A young man from New Zealand has arrived while the four of us have been out this morning. We learn that he has quit his job in Boston and is joining a friend in Kenya in hopes of landing a job with a nonprofit organization. I can’t imagine quitting your job before you have another lined up but then the man is quite young and full of optimism. We all wish him good luck in his endeavor.

Kapen posing with his bow and arrow before our evening walk.

This afternoon Paul and I are finally getting to take a bush walk. Kyle and Kapen are leading us; Kyle carries a rifle while Kapen carries a bow with arrows. One might find the bow and arrow a bit amusing except this man is a Masai and I have no doubt that he is a deadly shot with the antiquated weapon. Not far from camp we watch some elephants in the distance as they feed in the long grass. Walking just gives you a whole different perspective, for one thing you feel very small in the scheme of things!

Elephant in the distance

Two more elephants that I zoomed in on

Kyle schools us on the many different trees and bushes, including the toothbrush tree and the sandpaper tree. Kapen relates the story of when he and a friend were in the bush when a lion attacked them. His friend ran away and climbed a tree and left Kapen to fight off the lion alone, which he obviously did or he wouldn’t be relating the tale. He shows us the large scar next to his knee where the lion bit him but the lion payed for that wound with his life. I can’t even imagine facing such a fierce opponent with only a spear and winning the battle.

Paul looking up at where an elephant has left a gouge mark with its tusk in the tree

Kyle looking over the landscape

As the four of us traipse up the hill that looks down on the camp ground we see scattered across the hillsides, topi, Grant’s and Thompson gazelle, impalas and a giraffe with a very young baby. Again the feeling is totally different gazing at these animals with your feet on the ground. As the four of us are soaking in the beauty of the landscape in the early evening light we see a lion far below us approximately where we saw Frank and Jesse last night. There are a couple of vehicles there too and pretty soon another lion appears, then another, and another. By the time the parade of lions has ended there are nine of the tawny felines, a good portion of the Offbeat pride. The people in the Cruisers are getting a front row view as the lions walk or lay practically next to the trucks. I for one am tickled with our hillside seats as the lowering sun makes the lions glow like pieces of gold. The pride is too far away for a decent photo but I take a documentary photo of two of the group that are farther away from the vehicles and other lions. What a wonderful way to end our lovely trek plus no more worrying about Frank and Jesse!

Topi, gazelle and impalas seen on our walk

Kyle and Kapen

Two of the nine lions we saw a long ways from us. Actually there might be three lions in this photo. Frank and Jesse are rescued!

When we return to camp, Paul and I are relaxing in our tent before dinner when Wilson, the young man who usually escorts us between the dining tent and our tent, calls to us from our tent porch asking if we want to see lions. Paul and I assume he wants us to load up in a vehicle and drive to where the pride was while we were walking. We thank him for the offer but say no thank you. Wilson asks in a puzzling voice, “you don’t want to see the lion”?  This makes me feel guilty, the young man must think we are getting jaded, and I get up, walk to the tent flap, unzip it and stick my head out of the opening. My mouth falls open as I see a beautiful lioness walking along the far edge of the tall grass that borders our tent. I rush back into the tent to get the camera but when I get back the lioness is gone. Paul who came to look as soon as he saw and heard my reaction was able to catch a glimpse of our visitor before she disappeared.

Wilson gazing out to where the lioness was.

We apologize profusely to Wilson and tell him we thought he wanted us to leave in the Cruiser to go look at the pride. He laughs good-naturedly at our stupidity and since we couldn’t get a photo of the lioness, we take Wilson’s photo instead! Since it is nearly time for dinner, Wilson just waits for us to get our shoes on and then escorts us to the mess tent. We quiz our friendly chaperone on where the lioness has gone and if she could be hidden in the tall grass that we are walking next to. Wilson shrugs his shoulders and says “Oh no, she has gone that way” and he waves vaguely in the direction away from the camp. Since it is pretty dark by now we would never know if the lioness had bedded down in the tall grass! Our story about Wilson and the lioness by our tent does make good dinner conversation :).

The Mara part 12 2016

A partly cloudy sunrise in the Mara

Paul and I are well rested after our light day of activity yesterday, so even though we were disappointed that our night drive was rained out perhaps it was good for us to take it a bit easy. It is a beautiful morning and we are ready to join David and Kapen for another adventure. The deluge of rain last night left the roads sloppy with mud and we feel sorry for David as he must fight his way through a lot of slick spots and mud holes. I can’t imagine how tired his arms must get.

Not far from camp the lone cub we saw yesterday is lying among some rocks only he isn’t alone this morning. A litter mate is with him and David says that they have been together since being separated from their pride, we just didn’t see the other one yesterday. David alludes to Frank and Jesse and we ask if they are named after the James brothers. David says they are and we tell him that the James brothers were notorious outlaws that committed crimes in Kansas where we live. David looks shocked and asks us if Frank and Jesse were real people, which we confirm that indeed they were, but that the dastardly duo lived a long time ago. Evidently David thought Frank and Jesse were fictional characters. As we watch the lost cubs peering across the river for signs of their family, Paul and I lament about poor Frank and Jesse who are in their third day of being without protection or food. I can’t believe none of the pride has come back for the vulnerable cubs.

Not one but two cubs were left behind by the pride

At least we have each other buddy.

Where are they?

Poor Frank and Jesse

After trying to get some decent photos of the abandoned cubs in the dim light, we wish the two brothers good luck and continue on our way through the thicket lined road. Paul and I have been amused at how David warns us of thorn trees that might brush the side of the Cruiser and thus inflict scratches on a passenger if they are too close to the open window. Whenever the possibility of a thorny encounter might occur, David melodiously calls out “Watch out, prickles (thorns)”. He sounds like a conductor pleasantly calling out the next stop on a train journey!   Quite often at the announcement of “prickles” we indeed need to scoot away from the windows or pull our hands back inside the truck to escape being scraped by a thorny limb.

One of the baby giraffe browsing on a thorn tree

On a hillside there is an adult giraffe and two baby giraffe browsing the thorn trees (how do they do that and not lacerate their tongue and mouth?). Since the baby giraffes are two different sizes there must be another female around somewhere. Pretty soon the calm of this scene is interrupted by a single wildebeest that is running wildly out of sheer joy I think. The odd-looking beast starts his race to our right scattering impalas and gazelle as he lowers his head and runs and bucks with reckless abandon.  The stampeding wildebeest continues traveling in a semi-circle until he ends up near the trio of giraffe. The silly animal has startled the smallest giraffe that runs awkwardly for a few steps until it realizes the adult is not alarmed so the cute baby stops to stare at the wildebeest too. Another mammal has lumbered into the scene and unlike the harmless wildebeest the spotted hyena gets a different look from the female giraffe. The skulking critter stands and watches the smallest baby giraffe but seems to know a lone hyena is no match for an adult giraffe and soon it shuffles off across the grassland. We continue to observe the graceful giraffe and watch as an oxpecker lands on the back of one of the baby giraffe. The perching bird is not appreciated by the youngster who swishes its tail and twists its head back, mouth open as it appears to try to bite at the confused bird. I wonder how long it will take until this young giraffe understands that the oxpecker is its personal pest controller?

The smallest baby giraffe looks like a stuffed animal. Darn cute

The hyena just visible next to the scrubby tree

The spotted hyena walking across the plain

Get off of me! the oxpecker is a little hard to see but it is out of reach of the baby giraffes’ open mouth

Driving across the hilltop, the sun is beginning to take the chill out of the morning air and the sky is turning a brilliant blue. We stop to watch two large male wart hogs that are butting heads very much like our bulls do when they are fighting. Again the boars seem as though they are just fooling around and not really in a knockdown, drag out fight for territory. A Thompson gazelle is watching the warthogs pushing contest and it looks as though he is refereeing the old boars fight.

Not the best photo but these boar warthogs are big fellows

David drives the Cruiser down the hill and we enter an expansive valley carpeted in knee-high grass. Because of the tallness of the grass the valley is devoid of prey animals. There are a few elephants in the valley and as we scan the far hillside something else catches my eye. I hesitantly call out “is that a cheetah?” and David brings the Cruiser to a halt. As I raise my binoculars to zoom in on the object in question, I say with disappointment ” never mind it is not a cheetah”.  David on the other hand refutes me and states that it is indeed a cheetah. I quickly look at the animal on the hillside again but it definitely is not a cheetah, it is a gazelle, and I repeat my assertion that it is not a cheetah but a gazelle. David insists that it most certainly is a cheetah. We go through this no it isn’t and yes it is one more time before I ask our very eagle-eyed guide where he is looking because I am looking at the gazelle on the hillside. Oops, this is why we are so puzzled by each other’s assertions as David is looking along the edge of the valley! David has indeed found Amani across the valley, sitting in the grass, looking up at the hillside where the gazelle is grazing, actually where two gazelle are grazing. I have no idea how David found Amani so quickly once I voiced that I might see a cheetah.  It takes Paul and me a while to find Amani even with direction from our two guides for crying out loud. Masa are known for their keen eyes and boy have we seen proof of their sharp eyes on this safari. David reverses the direction of the truck and we take another road that will bring us much closer to the handsome feline.

A view looking down the valley to give you an idea of its expansiveness. How beautiful is that.

There is a cheetah in this photo and keep in mind that I have zoomed in on Amani. How did David see her?

Amani appears to be seriously considering stalking the gazelle on the hillside because she is studying them carefully. Eventually the polka-dotted cat stands up and begins walking through the wet grass towards the elephants that stand between her and the gazelle. Who knows what she is thinking but Amani draws near one of the adult elephants and stands staring at the humongous beast. Since a cheetah would never consider attacking even a baby elephant, when Amani turns her head and looks back at us she seems to be saying “I was just pulling your leg”. Amani begins to walk away from the elephant who never gave her a first glance let alone a second glance and thus she also walks away from the real prey, the gazelle.

I think I could take this big girl.

Just kidding.

Putting Amani in perspective to the landscape.

From this point we have many iconic National Geographic views of Amani. First the sinewy cat strides through the wet grass with purpose. When Amani reaches a small mound she stands with her front paws on top of it surveying the mostly empty valley. Amani then decides to sit atop the mound and relax so we enjoy looking at the cheetah in contrast to the wide valley with the elephant family in the background. Soon Amani is making her way forward again and we think she has her eye on some distant warthogs rutting up the ground in an area of short grass across the road.  The porkers see the attentive cheetah long before Amani is within striking range so she gives up on having a warthog for breakfast and makes her way to a large pile of black dirt. Here the elegant cheetah walks to the top of the mound and sits down, again surveying the mostly empty landscape. Eventually Amani, her fur damp from the stroll through the wet grass, lies down on the termite mound, (I think it is anyway, although I see no vents in the mound), and she seems to be settling in for a morning rest. We spend a few more minutes with the amber-eyed cat and then decide to move on to Leopard Gorge which was our destination for the morning. We spent an enchanting hour with the elegant Amani and enjoyed every minute of our time with her.

Amani standing with her front feet on a dirt mound surveying her surroundings

Beautiful Amani

Portrait of Amani

A big yawn

Resting on a mound of dirt

We leave the beautiful cheetah resting on the dirt or is it a termite mound?

On our way to Leopard Gorge we drive near more elephants, some on the move while others are cutting off grass and stuffing it by the trunkful into their mouths. There is a fairly young elephant with one group but the little one is mostly obscured by the long grass except for one brief moment when the elephants walk into shorter grass. There is also a single impala standing proudly at attention and why not with the set of trophy horns atop the stunning antelopes head. Farther on there are a pair of Lappet-faced vultures perched on top of a small tree, wings spread wide to dry the nights moisture from their feathers.

The clearest view we had of the baby elephant.

A proud impala with his impressive set of horns.

Lappet-faced vultures. Not the most attractive birds!

As we approach Leopard gorge a small herd of impalas are there to greet us near the entrance with curious stares. Although it is mid-morning and the light is growing a bit harsh the brilliant blue sky with a few puffy clouds accentuate the beauty of the narrow, rocky gorge. The gorge is not very long and in our drive through the small but beautiful ravine we see hyrax, lizards, a spotted eagle owl, and a hammerkop’s huge nest of sticks sitting on one of the chunky blocks of rock. We don’t find any leopards or other large predators but it certainly would be a great spot for them to hide or live.

Looking back towards the entrance to Leopard Gorge. Love that sky.

Paul scoping the rocks for wild life

Colorful Lizard with half his tail missing

Spotted Eagle Owl

It is past time for breakfast and David turns the Cruiser around to drive to the chosen site for our breakfast. As we approach the scenic place there is an enormous elephant grazing nearby with massive tusks. David and Kapen seem delighted to see the collared elephant which is named Hugo. Our guides tell us that Hugo is collared in hopes of discouraging poachers who would be tempted by the trophy tusks the old guy is carrying around. Evidently, Hugo often leaves the safe, or at least safer, areas of the park and conservancy which obviously puts the old bull in more danger of being poached.

Hugo. You can see how enormous his tusks are and understand why they put a tracking collar on him

It is nearly eleven and Paul and I are more than ready to eat breakfast! As David and Kapen set up the tables and chairs and lay out the food, Paul and I enjoy watching Hugo entwine his trunk around a wad of grass, kick it with his foot to cut off the grass, shake the dirt off, and then shove it in his mouth. Soon we have our plates full of the usual breakfast fare and the two of us are shoveling the food in our own mouths without the need to shake the dirt off:). David and Kapen are also eating breakfast but I notice that the two are keeping a wary eye on the big bull elephant. I don’t know if they are reading body language from Hugo or what but suddenly the pachyderm stops eating and start walking slowly towards us. The big bugger is a long ways from us but David suggests that we finish eating breakfast next to the Cruiser. We pick up our plates and do as our guides have asked. Now all of us are finishing our breakfast standing next to the trucks doors as we watch Hugo who continues to approach but with no signs of aggression from him. As quickly as the old bull showed interest in us picnickers, he decides we aren’t worth his time, and turns away from us. Hugo begins filling his mouth with grass again and we finish our breakfast too.

Panorama of the beautiful place where we had breakfast

Hugo as he starts walking towards us.

Paul and Kapen pose for a photo once Hugo decides we aren’t that interesting.

Paul has brought the photos of our ranch along and pulls the pictures out to show Kapen and David. The guides look at the photos eagerly and when they see our cows and calves their faces literally light up with delight. The questions pour out of them, are these your cows, are they for beef or dairy, your ranch looks like the Mara, you know that Masai think all cattle belong to them, how long have you been raising cattle? Paul happily answers every question that is thrown at him. Kapen jokes with us that he will come and take our cattle because since he is a Masai the cattle are really his. When Paul tells the interested Masai that we are fourth generation cattle ranchers, David exclaims “you are Masai too”! Paul agrees and then points out if we are Masai then we have the right to take Kapen and David’s cattle which makes them laugh joyfully. We end our breakfast on this fun and connective note and prepare to go back to camp.

Part of the buffalo herd that was crossing the road.

Hood ornament

We are waylaid a short distance from where we ate breakfast by a large herd of Cape buffalo who are slowly crossing the road. Many of the crusty bovine must stop and glare at us before they mosey on. Once we are able to safely drive on we see three fly infested buffalo rolling in a mud hole in an attempt to protect themselves from the biting insects. The fact that the buffalo are rolling in the mud is no big surprise but the fact that the mud hole is on top of the hill attests to the abundance of rain that has fallen in the Mara.

Big bull giving us the once over

Three buffalos rolling in a mud hole

We drive back through the valley but see no sign of Amani the cheetah. Kapen does find a saddle billed stork in the distance and since they know I like birds they are determined to get closer to the big stork that from where we sit now looks like a colorful speck. David does manage to get us somewhat closer but not enough for photos. I assure our determined guides that it is ok that we can’t get closer because I have seen many saddle-billed storks before.

When David drives out of the valley back to the hilltops, Paul and I are standing, (yep, my back is good as new), scanning the area around us. I call out “what is that over there” pointing just to our left. David and Kapen look up at me and ask me to show them where I am looking so I point and say “over there”. David and Kapen look in the direction I am pointing and confirm what I was almost sure of, that what I have spotted is a cheetah. After this morning’s mistaken identity I was too timid to declare “Is that a cheetah”?  Not only is it Amani but once we drive closer we see that she has made a kill! David pulls up quite close to Amani and shuts off the engine. Amani is eating as fast as she can on the Thompson gazelle. The poor cheetah is panting with exertion and because just about anything can and will steal a cheetah’s kill she must eat as fast as she can. The gulping down the meat causes Amani to appear to nearly choke several times while we are sitting there watching and listening to the cheetah munch on the unlucky gazelle. Amani stops occasionally and does a 360 degree scans to check for other predators before she continues speed eating on the carcass. The guides do their own scanning and are pleased to see that no vultures are approaching which will alert bigger predators to the fact that the vultures have found food. We spend about ten minutes watching Amani eat, semi-choke and pant not only from the chase but also from the heat, as it is quite warm by now. David knows that Paul and I would have liked to have seen the chase and the actual kill. He points out that if we hadn’t tried to get closer to the stork we probably would have arrived on the hill in time to witness the dramatic event. Paul nods in agreement and says he has already thought of that and they all look my way! Wait a minute, I never asked to try to get closer to the stork, in fact when I saw how far away the bird was I suggested that driving closer to it wasn’t necessary.  I refuse to be blamed for missing out on the action! O.k. the finger-pointing was in jest, (I think), and we all laugh. When we leave all of us are happy that no vultures are circling, no jackals can be seen and especially that no lions or hyenas are in sight. Maybe Amani will get to eat her fill, after all she is eating for those little cubs she will be having any day now.

Amani and her kill a Thompson gazelle

Trying to catch her breath

Surveying the area for predators that would steal her kill.

Kyle and Lara are waiting to greet us when David delivers us to the camp. The two of them ask us how our morning was and we replay “Fantastic” and proceed to fill them in on our time spent with Amani in particular. The couple is delighted that we had such a great morning drive after which they tell us that lunch will be served at one o’clock! It feels like we just ate:).

We dutifully return to the mess tent at the appointed hour but we definitely aren’t hungry. The South Carolina people that we have enjoyed getting to know since we came to Offbeat camp are leaving after lunch to go home. There are new spur of the moment arrivals to Offbeat who arrived this morning while we were on our lengthy game drive. We are waiting for them to show up for lunch and imagine our surprise when the German couple from Sosian walks into the dining tent!

The end of this day in part 13! Nancy