England part 1

Oxford England

Taken as we walked through a small village in the Cotswolds

Taken as we walked through a small village in the Cotswolds

 

After a flurry of activity on the ranch which included putting the alfalfa up, turning cows out to pasture and working the spring calves, the day has arrived that Paul and I are winging our way to England. Even though we received an inch of rain, (after the guys finished with the last alfalfa field), Kansas is still suffering from drought in our area and we wonder if we will have much brome hay to harvest when we return from our European vacation.

The flight from Manhattan to Chicago to England goes off without a hitch for us. Our old jet out of Chicago is half empty due to bad weather in other parts of the U.S. so Paul and I can lie down in the middle seats and get some decent shuteye overnight. Joy, whose flight came in ahead of ours, is waiting for us as we walk into the common area of Heathrow.

The three of us wander around looking for the man Joy researched and then engaged him to drive us to Oxford plus guide us for two of the days we are in England. Even though we have arrived early, Joy decides to call Steve after we have waited twenty minutes, to find out when he will arrive. While talking on the phone to Steve, he asks Joy if she is wearing a yellow blouse! We burst out laughing as we look around and find a man sitting in a chair a few yards away, chatting with Joy on his cell phone.

Steve leads us to his van and we leave London behind, driving towards Oxford where Doris and Lois are already settled into the apartment that we will be staying at for the next few days. If you haven’t deduced for yourself, the Miller siblings and me, the fifth wheel, are meeting for a Miller sibling reunion. England was chosen because Doris is in a program where people swap houses with each other for the opportunity to visit other parts of the U.S or world. The owners of this apartment owed Doris a stay in their home, as they used her house in Boston in the past. Not only that, we also have the use of the apartment owners car. Many thanks to Doris for being willing to share her house swap with the rest of us as it sure will save us a lot of expense during our stay in England!

Our drive to Oxford, well the suburb of Summerville, is filled with lush scenery punctuated with interesting information from Steve. Riding in a vehicle that is traveling down the left side of the road is always disconcerting for me, but by the time we arrive at the brick apartment building, I am already adjusting to everything being backwards. We say goodbye to Steve and hello to Doris and Lois who show us to our rooms in the cozy apartment.

The Miller siblings seem to have the square all to themselves

The Miller siblings seem to have the square all to themselves

Once we have settled into our rooms, the five of us enjoy catching up a bit before we have lunch. After eating we decide to take a bus to Oxford and do some sightseeing in the center of town. Paul and I are the only ones that haven’t been to England before so all the massive stone buildings, (most of which are a part of the colleges that make up Oxford University), are new to us. The ancient structures are awe-inspiring, imposing, and humbling. The morning clouds have given way to sunshine this afternoon as we wander through the labyrinth of stone where gargoyles depicting every emotion, (grinning, snarling, and frowning) look down on us. These faces and fanciful figures are in my opinion on the creepy side. Another eye opener is the immense number of bicycles being ridden or parked along the streets.

A whole host of stone faces looking down on us

A whole host of stone faces looking down on us

Creepy

Creepy

One of the happier looking stone gargoyles

One of the happier looking stone gargoyles

The five of us decide to pay a small fee to climb up into the tower of a church and are rewarded with a 360 degree, Birdseye view of Oxford. The beautiful blue sky, filled with interesting cloud formations, accentuates the gray stone edifices and the sunshine makes the brilliant yellow, fields of rape seed (canola in the U.S.) glow in the distance. We carefully walk down the narrow, winding stairs to ground level and continue to wander around the square and beyond.

Fantastic view from church tower

Fantastic view from church tower

A nice touch of color in all the grey

A nice touch of color in all the grey

Looking another direction from the tower

Looking another direction from the tower

After several hours of walking and gawking, we catch the bus back to the apartment. Considering Paul, Joy, and I had a long day and night of travel, I’d say we held up pretty well today!

I wake up this morning to weak sunlight filtering through the drawn blinds in Paul and I’s bedroom. I’m amazed that I have slept through the night considering our time difference of six hours. I peek at the alarm and see that it is only 4:15 a.m.! What in the world…I get up, look outside and sure enough, despite the light cloud cover, the sun is definitely lighting up the horizon. I guess we are pretty far north but I never dreamed dawn arrived at this time of morning in England.

Steve arrives at 9:30 and we are off to explore the Cotswolds area. It is overcast and misty by now but the landscape we travel through is lush and verdant. We make several stops through the day, some of them planned and some spontaneous. Steve is peppered with questions over a wide variety of topics from us and none of them seem to stump him. Looks like Joy hit a home run with our chauffeur/day guide. By the way his company is SHO4 Tours. Clever.DSCF7808

We explore the ruins of Dovecote, the house of Minister Lovell Hall from the 18th century. Even in ruins you can imagine the grandeur of the place in its prime.

Rather ambiguous hours for visiting Dovecote!

Rather ambiguous hours for visiting Dovecote!

Our guide Steve and Joy at Dovecote ruins

Our guide Steve and Joy at Dovecote ruins

Touring through the rolling hills of the Cotswolds, we admire and walk through Arlington Row, a group of cottages that date back to the 1300’s, or at least the area was founded at that time. Can you even fathom buildings that date back that far? And we think our house built in the late 1800’s is old :). We enjoy the picturesque area despite the light rain that is falling intermittently. There is a lovely pair of swans with their six cygnets gracing a placid stream that flows next to the road. An occasional trout can be spotted in the clear water if you look closely. Paul finds an ice cream truck at the end of our circular walk and treats himself to a vanilla ice cream cone.

Swan family near Arlington Row

Swan family near Arlington Row

Arlington Row cottages

Arlington Row cottages

Moving on through the Cotswolds, we find the proverbial scene that one conjures up when thinking of the English countryside. A flock of sheep is grazing on a lush meadow. The field is lined with trees and neon yellow fields of canola are seen in the background. All of us ask to stop and take photos of the bucolic sight, and Steve gladly complies with our request. The sun is trying to peek out of the clouds which help we photographers as we try to do the peaceful scene justice with our cameras.

Pastoral scene

Pastoral scene

Our next stop is at the Chedworth Roman Villa and the five of us join a group of tourists led by a volunteer who explains the archeological digs of this ancient Roman ruin. If I recall correctly, the settlement was actually manned by the locals but answered to the Romans. I listen politely as we peruse various areas of the ruins such as the steam bath room, the hypocaust (an under floor heating system), etc. but my eyes wander to some colorful birds that are dining at a nearby bird feeder. A park bench sits tantalizingly near the feeder and since I know all the facts and theories being proffered by our knowledgeable volunteer will never stick in my head, I wander off to observe the bird feeder visitors.DSCF7712

The hypocaust area

The hypocaust area

Since I don’t have my bird book with me, I take photos of the few birds that are brave enough to feed with me sitting within a few feet of them, so I can identify them later. A pheasant in the meadow below the Roman Villa begins running in my direction then flies over the wooden fence that delineates the ruins from the field. I lose sight of the colorful game bird at the base of a small knoll. A woman comes out of the building behind me and begins shaking a sack that contains grain, while calling out a name. It isn’t until the pheasant bursts into sight that I realize she was calling to this pheasant. The bird is sprinting enthusiastically towards the sound of the grain sack, just as our cattle will run when we honk the pickup horn to alert them it is time for hay. I wish I could remember what the office worker called the wild pheasant, but I do remember that she told me she feeds the bird to reward it for surviving the hunting season!

I hear the grain sack!

I hear the grain sack!

Chaffinch

Chaffinch

A robin who has some issues!

A robin who has some issues!

Paul comes to inform me the tour is over and it is time to leave. We wind our way through narrow roads where perfectly laid stone walls outline the farmers’ fields. Paul is in his element among all the stone fences and buildings, and he is soaking every bit of the beauty of the stone structures up. We pass through quaint villages with equally quaint names such as Twin Brooks, Stow on the Wold, Upper and Lower Slaughter, and they look like something out of a fairy tale. Steve stops the car on a couple of occasions and lets us stroll through the streets of the village as he waits for us at the other end of the villages. The one odd thing we notice is that most of the places we drive or walk through seem to be deserted. I guess everyone is working and the children are all at school.

Paul looking like a character out of Mary Poppins:)

Paul looking like a character out of Mary Poppins:)

A waterwheel in one of the villages we walked through

A waterwheel in one of the villages we walked through

Thatched roof seen on some houses in the various villages

Thatched roof seen on some houses in the various villages

Steve takes us to St. Andrews Church in Naunton and we quietly walk through the fifteenth century church. There is a beautiful stone font inside the church that dates back to the 12th century I think. It is hard to get my mind around something that old. We leave the peaceful old church and start back to Oxford.

St. Andrews church

St. Andrews church

Doris and Steve checking out the 15th century stone font.

Doris and Steve checking out the 15th century stone font.

We make one last unscheduled stop to look at some Cotswolds Lion sheep grazing on the bright green grass. The strange-looking animals are curious and come to have a close up look at their spectators. How do these animals see where they are going? Evidently they are called Cotswold’s Lions because their ears resemble lions ears.

Cotswolds Lion

Cotswolds Lion

Steve delivers us back to the apartment in Summerviller and we all agree that the day was interesting and filled with beautiful sights. Later, Nancy

The brilliance of the rape seed fields despite rainy skies

The brilliance of the rape seed fields despite rainy skies

Typical English garden

Typical English garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

A FEW MORE FALL CALVING TAILS (TALES)

A few more cattle tails (tales).

Vivid fall colors looking south from our yard

Vivid fall colors looking south from our yard

I have become a little lazy about typing some of the things that happen on the ranch. The three following stories happened during calving last fall and I have waited so long to write the stories that some of the details are beginning to fade. Nevertheless, I will do my best to recall as much of these calving incidents as I can.

Since I wrote about the uncaring heifer that refused to accept her calf in my last Reality Ranching, here is a story about a heifer who was just the opposite. Alas, I can’t remember the heifer’s number, where is Dalton when you need him, so I will refer to her as Sweetheart.

On my afternoon check I found Sweetheart in the early stages of calving and after a quick look I left her alone in hopes she would soon begin trying to calve in earnest. After thirty minutes have passed, I return to see if Sweetheart has either calved or is at least working hard at delivering a calf. I spy the heifer standing in a corner of the brome field but there is not a baby calf lying at her feet as I had hoped.  Since no feet are showing yet I make the assumption that Sweetheart is o.k. and decide to give the heifer another 20 minutes before I check on her again. After the 20 minutes has elapsed I find the heifer in labor but still no feet showing. Sweetheart pushes with all her heart (:)), several times before getting to her feet, walking a short distance and then she lays back down, again pushing with all her might to no avail. I do not like this scenario.

Not wanting to be a distraction to Sweetheart, I retrieve a pair of binoculars, and position myself out of the heifers’ line of sight; I peer through the binoculars to see if the calf’s feet will appear. Paul arrives home, (I don’t remember where he was), while I am spying on the heifer and he joins me. I hand Paul the binoculars and give him the time line on Sweethearts labor. He watches the heifer’s efforts through the binoculars for a few minutes and like me feels that by now the heifer should have had her calf or at the very least, a portion of the calf should be visible.

A serene scene to match Sweethearts personality

A serene scene to match Sweethearts personality

We prepare the pens and then walk out to where Sweetheart is still laboring with no results. When we approach the heifer rises to her feet and cooperates with us by walking into the lot.  Sweetheart shows no fear when we continue herding her into the working pens. We run the heifer up the alley, secure her head in the head gate, and place a halter on her. Paul then opens the head gate and lets Sweetheart into the corner pen. Paul ties the lead rope to one of the panels so we have some control over the heifer. When we need to help a heifer calve, we must do it in an area and manner that allows her to lie down, that’s why we don’t try to pull a calf in the alleyway.

Sweetheart doesn’t put up to much resistance to the halter and Paul is able to determine rather quickly that the calf’s feet are bent at the ankles and are stuck under the rim of the pelvis. Paul is able to straighten the calf’s feet out quickly and once that is done the calf is delivered easily. Thankfully the bull calf is alive but he is weak. We turn Sweetheart loose and she immediately goes to her baby calf and begins to fuss over it, licking and talking to the little creature that caused her so much stress.

After giving the cow and calf a half hour or so we can see that the calf is going to need help to get his first dinner. Again we must run Sweetheart into the alley and she doesn’t seem to mind. Paul guides the baby calf to his mother’s teats where he eagerly nurses but we must help steady him as he doesn’t have the strength to stand on his own. Once the little calf’s belly is bulging with milk, Paul carries him back into the pen and then we let Sweetheart join him. Sweetheart calmly walks out of the head gate, gives the two of us no mind, and walks over to nuzzle her now sated calf. What a difference from our last experience with the heifer that wanted nothing to do with her calf.

Though this photo has nothing to do with Sweetheart it shows a contented cow and calf

Though this photo has nothing to do with Sweetheart it shows a contented cow and calf

Paul and I decide to move the pair into the corner pen that is situated under the cow shed so the calf will be in a more sheltered environment. We load the baby in the Ranger and Sweetheart dutifully follows her mobile calf. Paul deposits the baby calf in the corner of the small pen and Sweetheart steps into the small enclosure like it is something she does every day. We shut the gate on the docile heifer and Paul proclaims “now that is a sweet heifer”. Now you know why I have dubbed her Sweetheart! The calf was on its feet nursing on its own later in the evening so we have a happy ending!

 

THE SURPRISE

Paul and I are making our morning rounds with the Ranger among the three herds of cows that we check. We are looking at the cows on the upland brome on the Rock place, when we notice a cow lying beneath a tree in the process of giving birth. She has chosen to calve not far from where her herd mates are lounging, so we retreat among the placid cows to wait for the birth of the calf.

The herd mates of 024 on the morning of Lucy's arrival.

The herd mates of 024 on the morning of Lucy’s arrival.

 

The calf’s head and feet are visible so we know it shouldn’t take long for the cow to deliver her baby. I’m not sure which one of us noticed that something was different about the emerging calf but it was quickly corroborated by both of us. This baby calf is red in color not black! Yes, the sire of this calf is a Simmental but he was sold as being homozygous black that means if the bull is used on black cattle the calves should also be black. Hmmm. Although a puzzler the main thing is to get a healthy calf no matter what color the calf’s hide is.

As we watch, the cow gives a few serious heaves and the little calf’s shoulders come into view. It shouldn’t be long now. Wait a minute, the cow is standing up and she turns around as though she has finished calving. Instead of lying back down the cow does another 180 and gravity pulls the calf farther out of its mother. Paul prompts me to take photos although I am aghast at what we know is going to happen. As the cow continues her half circles, looking for her calf that she is sure she has expelled, the baby slips out on its own and hits the ground with a splat. Welcome to the world you poor little creature. Granted, the baby calf was hanging out so far that the distance to the ground wasn’t that far.  Amazingly, the soaking wet calf right’s itself immediately and before long the red calf is shaking its head. This is a something we watch for within minutes of a calf’s birth. It means the calf is doing fine and soon will be trying to get to its feet. Momma, tag 024, finally catches up with her calf and begins licking her baby vigorously none the wiser that this calf is a lovely red color and entered the world with a literal lesson about the pull of gravity! Three photos of the red heifer being born follow, be forewarned!

Poor Lucy is about to get a lesson in gravity.

Poor Lucy is about to get a lesson in gravity.

Lucy arrives with a kerplop!

Lucy arrives with a kerplop!

Lucy immediately rolls onto her stomach.

Lucy immediately rolls onto her stomach.

Paul and I leave the two animals alone but return later to ensure that the little calf has nursed and also to give it an ear tag. We discover that it is a heifer calf and I promptly name her Lucy for the redheaded comedian I grew up watching, Lucille Ball.

Lucy growing up. Obviously her rough arrival didn't hurt her.

Lucy growing up. Obviously her rough arrival didn’t hurt her.

Paul and I discuss this standing birth and figure that it happens more than we know. We really don’t see our cows actually calving very often. Most calves are just there when we go to check on the herds every morning. In fact, Paul went back to check on a cow this spring and got there just in time to witness this cow deliver her calf while standing too, so who knows how often this happens.

The last calving tale in this trio of stories takes place on the same brome field where Lucy arrived into the world with her resounding thump! Paul and I are counting the cows as we drive among them and find we are one cow short. There are very few places in this field where a cow can hide so we quickly find our missing bovine.

The cow is lying near a small ravine below the water pond. As we drive up to the cow she stands up and we see that she is in trouble! There is one leg of her calf protruding from the cow and to make matters worse it is a back leg. The closest working pen is at our house and we need to get this cow there as quickly as possible.

The first thing we need to do is see if we can contact Randall. We know he is out checking the herds he takes care of on the 4-wheeler. We have to go home and call him on the phone and hope that he is in a spot where he has cell phone service. If not we figure he will see that the call is from us and will get to a place where he can listen to our message.

Sure enough, Randall doesn’t answer his phone but he shows up shortly after we called him. We are in the process of getting the rest of the cows out-of-the-way so the calving cow won’t be tempted to stay with her herd mates. Randall decides to go look at the cow to see what the situation is while we continue to lead the rest of the herd out of the sight of our problem cow.

Cows on the Rock place

Cows on the Rock place

Soon Randall comes back and asks if the cow we need to get in is number so and so (no I can’t remember her number). “Yes, that’s her” we reply anxiously. There is a big grin on Randall’s face as he informs us that the cow has delivered a big bull calf and it is already trying to get to his feet! I think both Paul and my jaws drop as we splutter out that we can’t believe that cow managed to have a calf when just one leg was showing. How in the world did she manage that? Yes, she is a large bodied, mature cow but still I can’t comprehend how she managed to give birth. The only thing I can figure is that the other leg was right there but perhaps the calf’s hoof was caught on the rim of the pelvic bone. Perhaps the cow managed to exert enough force to pop that hoof loose and the rest of the calf followed easily. We will never really know but we were certainly grateful that we didn’t have to trail the cow to the house and pull her calf.

Even though Randall wasted his time coming up to “help” us, I think it was worth it to him just to see the look of disbelief on our faces when he reported that the cow we thought was in so much trouble had calved! Later, Nancy

Another gorgeous sunrise at Rock Hill Ranch

Another gorgeous sunrise at Rock Hill Ranch

 

Fall calving tales of 2014

Hello,

A few of the "girls" that were having their first calves this fall

A few of the “girls” that were having their first calves this fall

The fall calving season came to an end in mid-December when the last cow of eight laggards finally dropped her calf. The majority of our cows had calved by the first week of November! I haven’t written a thing about the calving season this fall and a few of the stories I want to remember are in this blog or a future blog. Since I don’t have photos to depict most of these stories I will just sprinkle this blog with baby calf photos and ranch photos.

As always we kick off the calving season in September when the two-year old heifers begin to calve. Since the setup of small brome fields and easy access to catch pens is so conducive to calving out heifers where Paul and I live, this is where we keep the young heifers. Also because the guys are often working elsewhere, the task of checking the mothers-to-be is my job. Not that I’m complaining, because I truly enjoy walking among the “girls” as I refer to them, and watching for the tale tell signs that one of my wards is preparing to deliver her first calf of hopefully many calves to come.

We had twenty-four heifers to calve out this fall, and their first possible due date was September 20th. The due date is determined by a 9 month gestation period (yep, same as humans) counted out from the day we turn a bull in with the heifers. Naturally, this is an arbitrary date and by no means do the bovines automatically start calving on the 20th. We bring the heifers home two weeks prior to the due date, as heifers always begin calving early.

On September 11th, I found the first calf on its feet and nursing when I did my early morning check of the “girls”. This seemed to prompt other heifers to join in the fun and by early afternoon, three more calves were added to the herd. Of the four heifers that calved on this day, two of them were the smallest heifers in the group. When I return to the house and check the record book, sure enough my suspicions turn out to be correct; the small stature heifers are twin sisters. Being on the small side certainly didn’t stop them from being among the first to deliver calves.  I think it is pretty cool that the siblings calved within a few hours of each other too.

One of the heifers calves

One of the heifers calves

Things are rolling along smoothly in the heifer calving department and by the end of the month 60% of the “girls” have baby calves by their side. In the mean time we have brought the mature cow’s home from our scattered summer pastures and turned them onto the large brome fields. We check the mature cows for new calves first thing in the morning, and since we now have the side-by-side Ranger, I have opted to ride along with Paul for this chore too. Part of the reason I am accompanying Paul is because I love finding new calves. The other reason is that a neighbor of ours was checking and tagging calves this month when a cow knocked him down, and proceeded to maul him unmercifully until he managed to roll under his truck out of the angry cows reach! The heck of it was that the calf our neighbor was putting an ear tag in didn’t even belong to the attacking cow. Our neighbor spent some time in the hospital recuperating from the mama cows attack but that was certainly better than what the alternative outcome could have been. This chilling story was another reason I decided to ride along with Paul to check the older cows so he wasn’t by himself while tagging new calves.

A really bad photo of Paul preparing to tag this cow's calf. Notice how she has her chin protectively on her baby.

A really bad photo of Paul preparing to tag this cow’s calf. Notice how she has her chin protectively on her baby.

One morning we knew a heifer was preparing to calve but reasoned that we had time to check one herd of cows, after which we would come back to see how 284 was progressing. When we returned, sure enough there was a slimy calf trying to get to his feet, but instead of fussing over her new baby, 284 was walking away from the calf. Well crap, this is not a good sign. Paul takes the Ranger and drives into the small field while I go to open the gate into the catch pen. I watch with relief when the heifer turns and runs back to the calf when she notices Paul approaching her baby calf. My relief turns to disgust when 284 reaches the calf and proceeds to butt him, knocking the little calf to the ground. The silly heifer then comes trotting to the catch pen, walks through the open gate, and joins her herd mates. Paul picks up the rejected calf, loads him into the Ranger and brings him into the pen where his uninterested mama is.

We drive 284 into the working pens, push her into the alleyway and catch her head in the head gate. The calf is hungry and greedily nurses his mother with Paul helping the still wobbly calf find his mother’s teats. We are somewhat hopeful that the act of the calf nursing will trigger the mothering qualities in 284. We are even more hopeful that the light has gone on in 284’s head when she doesn’t try to kick the calf away while he nurses. Once the calf has his mother nursed dry, Paul places him in the corner of the small pen that is adjacent to the head gate, and then turns 284 in with her baby. Our high hopes are soon deflated because when the calf approaches his mother, she viciously butts him away. Dang it you ignorant old bat!

Paul devises a plan to put the calf in the corner hay manger and places a short wire panel to keep the baby from crawling out, but leaves a small space so 284 can at least smell the calf. We leave the pair alone but when I go back to check on the pair a short time later, I see that 284 has managed to push the wire panel over enough so she can insert her whole head into the manger and is trying to pummel the bewildered calf. I won’t type the words I labeled 284 with after watching this!

284 tied up so the guys can let her unwanted calf nurse

284 tied up so the guys can let her unwanted calf nurse

Paul and Randall work with the cow for a couple of days, tying her up with a halter and letting the calf nurse, hoping that some mothering instinct will show up. 284 has her own plan and refuses to let her milk down so the calf must work hard to get any satisfaction from the stressful nursing sessions.

We call our vet who suggests trying a mild sedative along with a shot that will make 284’s milk flow. We agree to give these things a try and our vet comes out the next morning. First the shot of oxytocin, next the sedative, then we allow the baby calf to nurse. You can see the sedative begin to take effect as 284 begins to relax. Once the calf has finished nursing, Paul again places the calf in the small corner pen and then he lets 284 into the pen. The three of us watch as 284 calmly walks over to the calf and slams it against the side of the pen. Paul rushes in, grabs the calf and carries him to the safety of an adjacent pen. The hopeful calf walks alongside the steel fence next to his so-called mother, following his instinct that he should be with his mother despite her abusive nature. 284 literally butts the iron bars with her head when the calf gets near her!

I have seen cows initially reject their calves but I can’t recall any that didn’t eventually accept their baby.  I have never seen the outright hatred that this heifer has for her offspring. Through the last few days I have verbally told 284 what a disgrace she is for her rejection of her calf, which had no effect on her at all of course. Today I tell 284 that she just bought herself a one way ticket to the sale barn. Looks like I have a bottle calf to take care of.

A mature cow warily watching we humans. The calf will soon be sporting an ear tag.

A mature cow warily watching we humans. The calf will soon be sporting an ear tag.

Our mature cows are due to start calving on October 1st and we begin bringing them home from summer pastures about ten days prior to that date. We first gather and haul the cows that are in the rental pastures furthest away from the ranch. We do this because if a cow does calve before we are able to bring all our cows home, at least the calf will be in a pasture at ranch headquarters.

On this particular day we are hauling cows’ home from the Chalk pasture, four miles away. There are 40 cows to gather and load into stock trailers to haul them back to the ranch. The cows willingly follow our pickup, which has a tantalizing bale of alfalfa situated on the back of the bed, into the catch pens. The black cows aren’t quite so cooperative when it comes time to load them onto the trailers but that job still goes fairly smoothly. Once we arrive home the cows are turned directly out of the stock trailers onto lush brome fields. Most of the cows only take a few steps from the trailer before they drop their heads and begin grazing on the green brome.

Once we finish hauling the cattle home from the Chalk pasture, we bring in another cow herd that is in a pasture east of Randall and Erin’s house. Paul is driving the pickup and leading the cows to the corral using the same trick of placing a tempting alfalfa bale on the tailgate. I walk behind the herd and Randall is riding the four-wheeler to nudge the stragglers along in addition to shutting the gates once the cows walk through.

When we reach the corral next to Deblers house, we hear a cow mournfully bawling from the direction we just came. I hopefully ask the guys if we might have miscounted and left a cow behind in the pasture. We do a quick recount of the black cows and reaffirm what we already knew, they are all here. Dang it, the lamenting cow we hear has to be from the cattle we gathered at Chalk this morning. We know by the tenor of the mooing that the unhappy cow is looking for a calf that isn’t here, but still up in the Chalk pasture.

baby calf portrait

baby calf portrait

I take the 4 wheeler and head south to find the lamenting cow, as Paul and Randall continue to work these cows and then sort them into groups for various brome fields. When I get to the south brome fields, it doesn’t take long to find the cow in distress. The forlorn mama is walking aimlessly, but now and then will drop her head to the ground in a vain attempt to catch the scent of her lost calf. I ride up to the searching cow to look at her tag number which is 58. As I look 58 over the obvious signs of a cow that has calved recently (messy hindquarters and tail) aren’t present. Before we bring cows home we always scrutinize the cows for these signs so it is easy to see why we didn’t realize that #58 had calved.

When I return to the corral where Paul and Randall are I report to them that indeed we have left a calf behind at the Chalk pasture. We decide that I will take a pickup with the 4-wheeler loaded on the bed, and start searching for 58’s calf, while the men finish processing the cows and turn them onto the brome. When they are finished they will join me at Chalk.

When I reach the Chalk property,( thank goodness we had moved the cows into the small pasture a couple of weeks ago), I ride to the east fence line and begin riding back and forth, hoping to see a small black form hiding in a clump of grass. The problem is there is a lot of tall, thick grass in this pasture and I will have to drive right by the new calf in order to find it. Paul shows up in the Ranger maybe a half hour after I arrived and he starts the same methodical back and forth search on the west side of the pasture. It is tedious and frustrating, but I tell myself to pretend I am searching for wild animals in Africa whenever I start to lose focus on this daunting task.

A fall calf peering at me over one of our stone fences that Paul hasn't restored yet.

A fall calf peering at me over one of our stone fences that Paul hasn’t restored yet.

The sun is sinking low on the western horizon, when Paul joins me and wonders if we shouldn’t go home and try to drive the cow to the pens then haul her back to the pasture, so she can find the calf herself. I point out that by the time we get home it is going to be dusk and we will still have to chase an uncooperative cow to the catch pens. I suggest we keep looking until we run out of light and then if we haven’t found the baby calf, we will bring the cow back first thing in the morning. I then tell Paul I am going to walk the small ravine that runs down the middle of the pasture before we lose the sunlight and he leaves to continue searching the heavy grass for our wayward calf.

A cow with her new baby

A cow with her new baby

Driving the 4-wheeler to the top of the ravine, I begin to pick my way through trees and brush. I have walked only a short distance when I see the black calf, lying next to a dead tree that has fallen over. The calf also sees me and I literally hold my breath, step behind a tree trunk, and silently implore the little thing not to get up and run. I peek around the tree, and to my relief see that the calf has settled back into his hiding place. Phew.

I sneak back out of the ravine and desperately try to get Paul’s attention by furiously waving my arms, but Paul is driving away from me so I must wait until he reaches the end of the pasture and starts making his way back in my direction. Even when Paul is coming towards me, he is so intent on searching the grass around him that it takes him awhile to see his wife waving at him like she is guiding a fighter jet onto the deck of a navy carrier! In the meantime I have kept one eye on the distant calf to make sure it hasn’t lost its nerve and decided to run for its life rather than lay quietly in its hiding place.

These fall calves are a few weeks old.

These fall calves are a few weeks old.

When Paul does see my frantic signals, he races up and I tell him where the calf is lying. Paul grabs a lariat while I skirt around the calf, ending up on the other side of the ravine. The theory is that if the calf comes my way I can shoo him in Paul’s direction. Best laid plans, the calf jumps up, runs right between us and heads south. CRAP! This calf appears to be s a few days old meaning it has the capacity to run fast and a long ways. Paul lopes back to the 4-wheeler (it makes shorter turns than the Ranger) and takes off after the scared calf. I watch in despair as the calf comes up against the barbed wire fence and attempts to crawl through, it fails the first three times it tries to navigate the fence and by then Paul has caught up to the calf. I have been running (well in my case trotting) towards the action so I see Paul make a grab for the petrified baby as it attempts to get through the fence again. Paul ends up holding a handful of air because the feisty calf gets through the fence this time, and is now on the county road and still running.

By this time I have reached the 4-wheeler and Paul is climbing over the fence to follow the calf on foot. At the moment Paul is going over the fence, the cavalry arrives in the guise of Randall and his eldest son. Paul urgently beckons to them and the red truck speeds up as Randall obviously has figured out we have a calf on the run. I jump on the four-wheeler and buzz to the pasture gate, assuming the versatile vehicle may still be needed. I drive through the gate and into the farmstead across the road since the calf has left the road and entered the yard. I am just in time to see that Randall has now taken over the chase of the frightened calf. The baby calf is running through Mrs. B’s soybean field with Randall hot on the runaway’s heels. Dalton, Paul, and I watch with hope as the calf again approaches a wire fence, with Randall in reach of a hind leg. The calf jumps into the fence; Randal grabs for the calf’s leg, and comes up with a handful of air.

Fall colors, unfortunately this is sumac and it is an unwanted plant on the prairie. Fortunately this isn't our pasture:) It is gorgeous in the fall.

Fall colors, unfortunately this is sumac and it is an unwanted plant on the prairie. Fortunately this isn’t our pasture:) It is gorgeous in the fall.

Paul gets back on the 4-wheeler and races to the gate that will let him into the farm ground where the baby calf is now. Randall, Dalton and I can do nothing but watch the show of the running calf and the pursuit by Paul.  We heave a sigh of relief when the calf stays on the short alfalfa field instead of disappearing into a tall stand of cane. Paul pulls even with the calf, but when he leans over to grab the bugger, the baby is smart enough to stop short and duck behind the 4-wheeler. The calf performs this tricky maneuver three times before Paul finally captures the scared but determined calf.

When Randall sees that Paul has the calf contained, he and Dalton take the pickup and drive over to meet Paul. I walk through the fields and when I reach the guys, they are trussing the feet of the calf so it can’t cause trouble on the trip home. The little heifer is indeed several days old so that means she was born about two weeks early. Somehow the cow managed to keep the calf secret when we checked them a week ago plus Paul had checked them carefully yesterday!

Paul drives home in the pickup with the hog tied calf lying on the passenger floorboard, Randall and Dalton take the other pickup, and I drive the Ranger as our convoy starts home in the dusky light. By the time I arrive the men have delivered the wayward calf to a relieved mama cow. They reported that 58 sniffed her baby and begin licking her calf, seeming to think nothing about how her calf had magically appeared before her eyes. The baby recognized mama right away and began nursing since the little heifer hadn’t had a meal since this morning. Mission accomplished although it was a mission we would rather not have had to undertake!

Dalton and Jake in the background feeding cows

Dalton and Jake in the background feeding cows

We adults are so relieved with the outcome but irritated with the extra time and effort it took remedying our mistake of leaving the calf behind. Randall told us the next day that when he tucked his son into bed that night, Dalton stated” I sure had fun tonight Dad!” That sentence from a seven-year old sent Paul and I into peals of laughter. So besides rescuing and uniting a cow and calf, we also left a boy with what perhaps will be a lasting memory :).

This is Dalton's cow Flower giving her calf Petal a spit bath:)

This is Dalton’s cow Flower giving her calf Petal a spit bath:)

The results of the spit bath Petal received

The results of the spit bath Petal received

In late November we were working the calves from the group of cows that includes 58 and her calf. Dalton is helping me chase calves up the alley into the calf cradle where his Dad and Paul are vaccinating, branding and castrating the calves. The largest heifer in the group manages to escape my efforts to run her into the alley several times. Dalton reads her tag number and calls out “that is the calf we chased up at Chalk”. I’ll be darned; I certainly didn’t remember her number until my helper pointed it out to me. I guess the incident is indeed seared into Dalton’s memory.

This sunrise looked like the prairie was on fire. No camera tricks either.

This sunrise looked like the prairie was on fire. No camera tricks either.

ISTANBUL TURKEY 2014

Istanbul Turkey 2014DSCF5847

We trail along behind our driver who leads us out of the terminal where we squint as our eyes try to adjust to the brilliant sun that is shining in the Turkish sky. Our driver takes us to his car and we load our luggage and ourselves into the auto, finding ourselves knee to knee in the face to

The only half way decent photo of some of the flowers I got from our moving car

The only half way decent photo of some of the flowers I got from our moving car

face seats. Paul and I haven’t seen this arrangement since our Russian adventure where we traveled most of that journey facing the back window! It doesn’t really matter as the thoroughfare leading into Istanbul is beautifully landscaped with colorful flowers on both sides of the road. The Marmara Sea flanks the road to the right of us as some of  the city of Istanbul rises to the left. There are ships of every size and shape waiting their turn at the mouth of the Bosphorus River where they will traverse the narrow strait and enter the Black Sea at the end of the river, or vice versa! Besides being an important strait for international navigation the Bosphorus River also divides Istanbul into the Asian and European parts.

Looking across to the Asian side of Istanbul

Looking across to the Asian side of Istanbul

Our driver turns the car into a narrow street in the part of Istanbul known as Sultanahmet or the Old City and he navigates the vehicle through the narrow, cobblestone streets to Hotel Uyan where we will spend the next two nights. The ancient history of this place practically oozes from the historic buildings that dot the skyline all around us.

DSCF5496We check into our rooms and have to admit they aren’t much bigger than our mobile tent. O.K. it isn’t that small but Paul and I really do have to stand against the wall to let the other one pass if we happen to be walking around the bed at the same time! There is a cute little balcony where the door can’t open fully due to lack of space, but we manage to squeeze through the narrow opening so we can look down at the street life below us. `We’re a couple of levels above the street which is nice too.

Once Paul and I have stacked our luggage as much out-of-the-way as possible, we leave Hotel Uyan to explore the Old City and find a cafe to eat lunch. There are lots of tourists and lots of Turkish residents trying to sell the foreign visitors something, including us. There seems to be Turkish carpets for sale around every corner and plenty of shops with all kinds of souvenirs for visitors to peruse. One of the best lines we hear from a merchant is “Can I sell you something you don’t need and really don’t want”? It sure made us laugh but the young man didn’t get any of our money.

The Blue Mosque and lovely water fountain

The Blue Mosque and lovely water fountain

Paul with the Hagia Sophia in the background

Paul with the Hagia Sophia in the background

Paul and I enjoy the water fountain that is between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. Tourists and natives alike sit on the benches around the circular fountain and watch the jets of water shoot into the sky in a variety of different designs. Unfortunately, all of the buses that park and disgorge tourists onto the square, park in close proximity to this area, taking a little bit away from the splendor of this dancing fountain and the two famous buildings whose domes and minarets dominate the landscape. Nevertheless, the exotic and ancient architecture surrounding us commands our attention despite the modern mode of transport that clutter the outskirts of the square.

Paul waiting for lunch at the Lady Diana restaurant

Paul waiting for lunch at the Lady Diana restaurant

Our lunch arrives and it was delicious

Our lunch arrives and it was delicious

We meander along narrow streets not really finding a restaurant that appeals to us. We end up eating at the cafe across the street from our hotel called the Lady Diana. I know, not exactly a Turkish name but the food offered was Turkish and quite tasty.  After lunch we decide to venture further into this ancient city and begin walking with no particular destination in mind. We are admiring the stone work of arched doors and old fountains as we make our way through the throngs of people and by chance we run into Daktari and Brian who are munching on roasted chestnuts. They offer us one of the roasted nuts and we accept it, but must admit we aren’t all that impressed with the taste or the consistency of the nut meat. There are little vendor carts selling the chestnuts everywhere so obviously other folks do like them. Other food items that are being offered from the moveable carts are wedges of red, juicy watermelon, and steaming ears of corn.

Look who we run into on these busy streets.

Look who we run into on these busy streets.

Vendors selling sweet corn and watermelon

Vendors selling sweet corn and watermelon

Paul and I decide to walk to the Spice market which is close to the Bosporus River. Paul is using his guide-book but after walking what seems like miles, we finally stop and ask a waiter if we are near the Spice market. The personable young man nods and points in the direction we were walking and tells us to continue a few more blocks. When Paul and I arrive at the building that holds the famous Spice market we walk through a door to find, not spices, but huge stalls where pet food, birds, and rabbits are being sold. The pet food is sold not in bags but is scooped up out of bins so you can buy whatever amount you prefer. A wild dove is helping itself to some millet type grain in one of the plastic bins and the bird looks quite healthy! We wander through the section where there are birds and rabbits for sale but we don’t stay long. I can’t stand to see the parakeets, lovebirds, rabbits, etc. crammed into small cages with little room to move, while they are waiting to find a home.

This pet food was offered in sacks. Others were heaped in plastic bins.

This pet food was offered in sacks. Others were heaped in plastic bins.

We finally end up in the main area of the Spice market to find that there is much more than spices for sale here as jewelry, perfumes etc. are also on display. Paul and I do find an area where the spices are piled in colorful pyramids for shoppers to buy or just admire. The spices are lit up under odd yellow lighting which ends up making it hard to get a decent photo. One woman asks for money after we have taken a photo of her shops display but we just shake our head in disgust and walk on. Come on.

Spices for sale. Awful lighting!

Spices for sale. Awful lighting!

On our walk back to our hotel, we stop at the little sidewalk cafe where we asked for directions. They sell ice cream here and we decide to have a treat. Once we have chosen our flavor and the type of cone we want, the ice cream server scoops my choice into the cone. When I reach for the cone, I suddenly am grasping air as the waiter/performer yanks the cone away at the last-minute. He pulls a couple more tricks on me which leaves me laughing loudly before he finally allows me to actually have the ice cream I ordered. Paul is next in line and the trick he pulls on Paul is having two cones stacked together and when Paul grasps the cone, he ends up with an empty shell as the comedian pulls the loaded cone out of the bottom one. It was all great fun and the ice cream was delicious.

Paul and I continue moseying towards the main square while admiring the ancient stonework particularly all the arched doorways that are often embellished with designs chiseled into the stone. We are already becoming immune to the pleas from the male merchants asking us to come into their shops and look at what they have to offer. One man hooks us by pointing to Paul’s Cowabunga t-shirt he is wearing, asking if we have been on safari. The salesman pushed the right button and soon he and Paul are in conversation and Paul is showing him a few photos of our African safari on his camera. Soon we find ourselves inside the shop and end up buying a small trivet because we know it will be easy to pack and I can always use a trivet. I’m sure the shop owner had higher hopes than that but he still hooked us with an age-old tactic of flattering a customer by making things personal, which for some reason makes one feel obligated to reciprocate the sales persons interest in you. Gee, we fell for that trick like a couple of rookies!

Just a nice photo taken near the spice market.

Just a nice photo taken near the spice market.

Beautiful ancient fountain (I think)

Beautiful ancient fountain (I think)

By the time Paul and I are nearing our hotel we are hungry again and by chance there is a small bakery a half block away from the hotel. We can’t pass up the delicious looking goodies and purchase a baklava and an orange tart. It is a good thing we will only be here one more day because I could live on the bread and the pastries that are offered in Istanbul and I’m sure the pounds would accumulate in a hurry. The pastries are melt in your mouth good.

As we sat at the single table that sits outside the small bakery to enjoy our desserts, we watch as a man exits his rug shop and puts cat food into a pan across the street. Soon a handful of half-grown kittens appear and begin gobbling up the preferred food. The man comes back to where we are sitting and pours more food in a pan next to us for a healthy dog that is lying on the sidewalk. We strike up a conversation with him and he explains that not only the cats but also the dog are “street animals”, meaning no one owns them but lots of people feed them. He tells us that the government vaccinate and neuter the dogs and uses ear tags to mark the dogs that have been taken care of. He doesn’t say anything about the cats being vaccinated or neutered like the dogs, and by all the kittens plus the fact that a lot of the cats appear to be semi-wild probably means that the cats aren’t taken care of in the same way as the dogs.

Feeding time.

Feeding time.

I pay more attention to the street animals after this and soon notice pans of feed and water dishes everywhere we walk. The dogs are healthy as are many of the street cats although I do see some cats that have some health problems. I notice many of the shop owners, who often sit outside the door of their shops, will stoop down to pet a cat or dog that is walking by. I found this kindness to the street animals to be an especially endearing quality of the Istanbul people.

I took this photo from our balcony of a shop owner petting a street cat.

I took this photo from our balcony of a shop owner petting a street cat.

As dusk begins to fall across the Istanbul skyline, Paul and I climb to the rooftop terrace of our hotel to watch the city light up. We have a good view of the Blue Mosque on our left and the Hagia Sophia on our right, and Paul and I enjoy watching these incredible architectural wonders become more brilliant as the sky continues to darken.  Not a bad way to end our first day in Istanbul.

The Blue Mosque from our Hotel roof top

The Blue Mosque from our Hotel roof top

Paul and I slept well in our tiny room last night with little street noise to bother us. We make our way to the dining room and fill our plates from the variety of cereals, eggs, breads, cheeses and yogurt, etc. from the breakfast buffet.

The five of us meet at the hotel lobby at 8:30 and walk to our designated meeting place with the guide we have hired to take us on a walking tour today. We find the entrance to the Basilica Cistern and we wait for the appearance of our guide Ozgu Unal. Since we only know our guides name and that she is a woman we must just be patient and assume she will approach us since we seem to be the only group hanging around the outside of the Cistern, it should be easy for her to spot us. Soon a young, dark-haired, woman approaches us and asks if this is the Miller group (Paul organized this tour) and we acknowledge that we are. The t-shirt, jean clad woman introduces herself and says to make things simple we can call her Oz. A bit ironic considering three of us are from Kansas! From the time Oz introduces herself I am fairly certain this was a good call by Paul in specifically requesting her as our guide, due to reviews he had read about Oz. She is bubbling with energy, speaks perfect English and when she begins to give us some background on the Basilica Cistern it is obvious she is a walking encyclopedia.

Oz leads us to the entrance of the Cistern and right away we see the perk of having a guide. Instead of standing in line with the other tourists, guides have a separate entrance for their clients. Sweet! We arrived just as the tourist attraction is opening this morning so we have definitely beaten the crowd.

As we walk through the entrance into this underground structure the air grows humid, the light grows dim and the sound of dripping water echoes through the chamber. Once we descend the stairs to the wooden walkway that wind through this subterranean wonder, my mouth practically gapes at the beauty of the carved columns that support the roof of the cistern. There are strategically placed spotlights so tourists aren’t bumping around in the dark, and the light shimmers pleasingly over the water where large white carp lazily swim.

An interesting carved column.

An interesting carved column.

Columns in the Basilica Cistern

Columns in the Basilica Cistern

Oz recites the history of the Basilica Cistern, explaining that it was built in 532 AD. I have a hard time getting my mind around that date! The beautiful pillars, many with fantastic designs carved into them, are thought to have been pilfered from ruined temples in the area. There are 336 columns supporting the structure and I wish I had better photos of the pillars.

According to Oz the Basilica Cistern fell out of use and forgotten, then was rediscovered in the 1500s, but the Cistern was not renovated until 1985. One of the oddest things in this awesome place is a Medusa head that was placed upside down and no one really knows what that is all about. Oz also tells us the Cistern plays an important role in the book by Dan Brown called Inferno, which by chance Paul and I are reading on this trip. Oz promises not to give anything away since we have not reached the part in the action thriller which takes place in Istanbul. Again we see that it pays to get to tourist attractions early because as we are leaving the Underground Cistern is beginning to fill with tourists.

Upside down Medusa

Upside down Medusa

Blinking in the bright sunshine to adjust our eyes after the dim light of the Cistern we continue our walking tour of Istanbul. Our next stop is the Blue Mosque and there is no jumping line this time. We line up with the throngs of tourists that are waiting to enter the ornate doors on the West side of the Mosque, and we slowly shuffle our way towards the dusky- grey, multi-domed building. Once inside we must remove our shoes and women must put a covering over their heads. I have come prepared with my own scarf although the Mosque loans scarves to women who don’t have their own headwear.

Paul and I in the Blue Mosque

Paul and I in the Blue Mosque

Now that we are appropriately clad to enter the Mosque, we bump and shoulder our way to the main area where Oz talks to us about the origins of the Mosque. Oz informs us that the real name of the Mosque is Sultanahmet Mosque and it was built in the early 1600’s. It derived its nickname the Blue Mosque due to the blue tiles that are on the interior walls. After dispensing more information that has long since escaped my brain, Oz says she will meet us outside the Mosque at an allotted time. We now begin to take photos of the incredible interior and the mind-boggling, colorful arches that are overhead. I can’t get a grasp on how anyone can build such a complex structure and I truly get dizzy after peering up at the large dome overhead that is filled with busy patterned arches. The photo of Paul and Brian with their mouths open in awe, pretty much says it all!

A dizzying effect when you look up, at least for me.

A dizzying effect when you look up, at least for me.

The guys in awe inside the Blue Mosque

The guys in awe inside the Blue Mosque

Oz leads us to a lovely area known as the Byzantine Hippodrome where races and political rallies were held in ancient times, but the place now serves as a city park. There is an Egyptian Obelisk, (3500 years old) that stands here, spoils from a long ago war with Egypt.

Oz our guide, talking with enthusiasm about the area of the Byzantine Hippodrome. Egyptian Obelisk in the background

Oz our guide, talking with enthusiasm about the area of the Byzantine Hippodrome. Egyptian Obelisk in the background

We move on to the Hagia Sophia Museum which is much more impressive on the outside than the inside. A good part of this Museum is under renovation so scaffolding and restoration material cover a large portion of the main part of the Museum. Oz tells us that this so-called renovation started when she was twelve and almost no progress has been made in the twenty some years since she visited as a preteen!

Looking up inside the Hagia Sofia Museum. You can see the flaking paint

Looking up inside the Hagia Sofia Museum. You can see the flaking paint

After we leave the Hagia Sophia, our guide takes us to lunch at one of the many restaurants in the area. We are treated to puff bread, (wonderful stuff), chicken kabob, fruits and baklava with ice cream for dessert. After all the walking we have done we are all very hungry and appreciate the tasty meal.

Oz takes us to a carpet store where we sit through a presentation of Turkish carpets. Paul and I have experienced this in India but the showmanship that goes on to show off the merchant’s carpets is still quite interesting. The owner also gave us free drinks to sip on during the performance, but for all their trouble they only sold one person in our group a lovely pillow case. The prices on the beautiful carpets took Paul and me out of the market in a hurry, although there were a few of these works of art I would have bought if money was no object!!

One of the showmen presenting this carpet with a swirl!

One of the showmen presenting this carpet with a swirl!

Inside the Turkish carpet store watching the presentation of carpets.

Inside the Turkish carpet store watching the presentation of carpets.

DSCF5784The grand finale of our walking tour is the Grand Bazaar but it doesn’t take long for our group to decide this place isn’t for us. After a short walk into the crowded, noisy place, Brian and Daktari wave goodbye and go off to see another Mosque. Bwana Cheka and Bibi Vitabu make a quick purchase and walk back to the hotel. Paul and I go in search of some decorative boxes for three kids in Kansas, but after a few minutes we are overwhelmed by the glitter, narrow aisles, and crowds of people so we leave the Bazaar. Before we strike out on our own we tell Oz how much we enjoyed the tour and pay her our share of the tour plus add a tip. Paul promise to give her an excellent review on Trip Advisor which is where he found Oz in the first place!

As we wander the streets looking in various shops, we soon find boxes we like but they are high-priced and the vendors will not bargain with us. We finally settle on fabric coin purses that have Istanbul embroidered on them. Making our way towards the hotel, Paul and I buy and share a fresh squeezed orange juice and call the day a success.

Tonight Paul and I splurge and have dinner on a roof top restaurant that is two doors down from our hotel. All the tables that line the edges of the roof top restaurant have been reserved, but the interior tables still have a wonderful view of the Bosporus River and the Asian side of Istanbul. We again enjoy watching the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia light up as the sun disappears over this ancient city. We are just as impressed with the beauty of the famous buildings as we were last night.

Our second night watching the Blue Mosque light up. Gorgeous

Our second night watching the Blue Mosque light up. Gorgeous

The Hagia Sophia seen as we dined on the neighboring restaurant roof top.

The Hagia Sophia seen as we dined on the neighboring restaurant roof top.

We have another restful night at Hotel Uyan and are up early to pack up our bags. This morning we find that the buffet food is cold and when we point this out to one of the servers he discovers that the warmers for the hot food have not been plugged in. We stick with cold food from the buffet this morning, no sense taking a chance on bad food!

Since we don’t leave for the airport until late morning, Paul and I walk to the Marmara Sea. The streets are very quiet here and when we reach the sea, there is a small fishing boat not far from the shore that is hauling up a net full of fish. A pod of dolphins are swimming nearby, so our foray to the sea was well worth the time. We also walk by old ruins and walls that are still standing among the more modern buildings of this part of Istanbul.

Fishermen on the Marmara Sea

Fishermen on the Marmara Sea

A group of dolphin not far from the shore.

A group of dolphin not far from the shore.

Paul and I go in search of pastries which leads us back to the city center. When we reach the dancing fountain, there are lines of buses emptying themselves of tourists. Yikes, we thought yesterday was crowded; it appears we are leaving just in time. We continue our quest for pastries and finally find a bakery that has much more variety than the small shop near our hotel. We buy several tasty treats to take with us to the airport and then return to the hotel. Paul and I shower, check out at the front desk, and join the rest of our group in the hotel lounge as we wait for our driver to appear and take us to the airport.

Paul and I are so glad we did this layover in Istanbul for two days and we enjoyed it so much that we hope to return to Turkey and travel more extensively someday. Nancy

Ancient stone wall still hanging on in Istanbul.

Ancient stone wall still hanging on in Istanbul.

Some of the interesting stone work still standing amid modern buildings.

Some of the interesting stone work still standing amid modern buildings.

Final day in the Selous Reserve, part13

Final day in Selous, part13

Another beautiful sunrise

Another beautiful sunrise

If there were any animal visitors or sounds during the night in our camp I slept right through them. I’m up early and walk down to the lake to watch the sun come up. Tembo and Mawe have already taken up vigil near the lake and are also watching as the red sun slowly edges up into the African sky. The sunrise is another stunner and we quietly appreciate its beauty.

This Grey Heron was in this spot at our camp site every morning

This Grey Heron was in this spot at our camp site every morning

Today we are taking lunch with us and will spend the whole day traversing through a small part of the vast Selous Reserve. Once we get through the gnarly road that leads away from our camp, we amble through timber areas, grassland, and alongside lakes. Yesterday as we searched for wild animals, I found myself humming the tune of “Quiet your mind”, by the Zac Brown Band (my favorite group). Today the song pops into my head again and I realize I am humming it out loud. The words of one stanza runs through my mind and they are certainly appropriate, particularly because of the sunrises we have seen at this mobile camp. I include the words so you can see why I find them so fitting.

At the end of the water

A red sun is rising

And the stars are all going away

And if your too busy talking

You’re not busy listening

To hear what the land has to say

Quiet your mind.

I don’t know why this song has surfaced in the last two days; maybe my subconscious is just reminding me to make the most of the end of our time here.

Baby Bushbuck

Baby Bushbuck

Some of the highlights of this morning include a baby bushbuck following its mother and turning to give us a curious look before walking into the thickets. There is a victorious impala buck chasing his vanquished foe along the edge of a lake, a trio of ground hornbills in the background are unimpressed with the impala skirmish that is taking place. Two majestic fish eagle are outlined against the deep blue sky as they perch in a sun bleached dead tree. Across the water are three giraffe, two of them in their awkward straddled position as they drink.

Drinking Giraffe

Drinking Giraffe

Mid-morning our drivers stop near a lake, set up a table and lay bananas and drinks out for us to snack on. Brian finds a dead palm frond and brandishes it like it is a whip while scowling at us as if he has had enough of his wards. I think he was just kidding!

Brian brandishing his make believe whip

Brian brandishing his make believe whip

As we continue on, someone in one of our sister vehicles spots an aberration in a female impala that is sporting one horn. Female impala do not have horns! To make this oddity even stranger, the horn is growing downward and unfortunately the point of the horn is beginning to pierce the doe’s cheek. Occasionally, this will happen in cattle and you must saw the tip off of the horn or the horn will literally puncture the animals flesh and result in a wound. This does not look good for the impala as she isn’t going to receive any human help. Our next unusual find is a giraffe that is so light in color we at first wonder if the animal is an albino. The giraffe’s eyes are brown so obviously the animal isn’t albino, but the leggy animal is still  a very unusual color.

Female Impala with a horn. A doe should not have horns!

Female Impala with a horn. A doe should not have horns!

The light colored Giraffe

The light colored Giraffe

The guides stop by a large lake to prepare lunch for us and it is a perfect place to eat our last lunch in the Selous. There are several half-submerged hippopotamus in the calm water and the vast sky is full of puffy, white clouds. Yes, it is hot but there are trees that lend us a little shade. After eating, I ask Kevin if I can walk to a tree that stands not far from our picnic spot. Kevin gives me his permission and laughingly says that I can also go for a swim if I want to.  No thanks and I plan to stay far from the water’s edge!

We ate our lunch gazing at this gorgeous view.

We ate our lunch gazing at this gorgeous view.

The dinner bell must have rang:)

The dinner bell must have rang:)

After our leisurely lunch, we move on through the dusty land and we haven’t gone far when Ngruwe points to a tree and declares that there is an animal there. I see the outline of rounded ears and soon we realize a huge hyena is sitting at the base of the tree. As we watch, the animal gets to its feet and awkwardly lopes off. The spotted hyena doesn’t go far after deciding we are harmless, and sits down in the shade of a tree. The ugly critter, (in my opinion) stares back at us with one brown eye and one blue eye. I’m fairly certain that the hyena is blind in the blue eye. The tree that the hyena is sitting by has a mythical look in my imagination, as to me it looks like a knight type figure that has a shield over its head, one eye is visible and what looks like an arm is resting on the back of the hyena. It is kind of creepy to tell you the truth.

The big hyena running away from us before sitting down again

The big hyena running away from us before sitting down again

The hyena at the base of the tree that looks like a mythical knight like figure to me

The hyena at the base of the tree that looks like a mythical knight like figure to me

Moving on through the Reserve we find four lion near a lake sleeping among low growing bushes. They have no interest in us and the sun dappled felines barely open their eyes as we invade their space. Nyama decides to crawl out onto the back roof, where Brian often rides, to get better photos. It doesn’t take long for the lions to notice this aberration to the vehicles shape and one of the big females stands up looking towards our Rover. Oops, I suggest that maybe it would be wise if Nyama would come back inside the truck even though the big cat doesn’t seem alarmed or upset. I would guess a leap onto the roof wouldn’t be likely for the lion to do, but let’s not tempt the beautiful animal into proving that wrong.

A sleepy Lioness

A sleepy Lioness

Eventually two sleepy lions manage to muster enough energy to sit up and move all of 20 feet to the other side of the bushes. Kevin maneuvers the Rover around so we are privy to have a frontal view of the cats. The beautiful lionesses catch sight of a few impalas grazing across the road and fix them with an interested stare. They aren’t hungry enough to attempt to hunt the antelope and eventually the duo lay back down. The youngster in the group joins them briefly before deciding to crawl back into the bushes where there is more shade.

The Lioness' see grazing impalas across the road

The Lioness’ see grazing impalas across the road

Three relaxed lions

Three relaxed lions

We leave the contented lions behind and continue exploring this new area of Selous. About an hour later it is obvious our guides are looking for something as they have slowed the vehicles down and are searching intently among a group of trees. Kevin pulls up next to a small grove of acacias(I think), and there in the center of the cluster of trees are a pack of wild dogs! No way, in our four previous trips to Africa the closest we have come to wild dogs are seeing the canine’s tracks in the dirt. Now we have seen two different packs of dogs in back to back days. We again tell our vehicle mates that they have no idea what an incredible safari this has been and how fortunate they have been to see all the animals we have seen in one trip. Unbelievable.

Wild Dogs resting in the shade. Paul's photo

Wild Dogs resting in the shade. Paul’s photo

This group of dogs is sleeping on grassy ground under the shade of the acacias and are lying very close together. It occurs to me that when the dogs are all lying still and on their sides you could imagine that someone dumped a large amount of marbled cake batter on the ground since the painted dogs hides seem to be a continuous color of yellows and blacks! This group of dogs for the most part does not have as much white in the color scheme of their coats as the pack we saw yesterday. They also appear to be as healthy and well fed as the group we saw yesterday.

One dog getting a little playful with a pack mate

One dog getting a little playful with a pack mate

The day is fading away and we need to get back to camp before the sun exits the sky so we reluctantly leave the painted dogs behind. Another incredible day in the wilds of Africa and I find it hard to believe we will be leaving everything behind tomorrow.

Painted Dog close up

Painted Dog close up

Christophe has prepared a special meal for us tonight in celebration of the end of our safari. It seems that all of the camp staff chipped in money to buy a goat and Christophe has been roasting the meat all day. The meat smells and tastes good but the sacrificed goat must have been an old goat as the meat is tough and it takes a lot of chewing to reduce the bite of meat to a state where you can swallow it. Regardless, most of us take seconds because this thoughtful offering from the wonderful people who have taken care of us is very touching.

The gift of roast goat from the camp staff. Paul's photo

The gift of roast goat from the camp staff. Paul’s photo

The camp staff isn’t finished with surprises tonight because once we finish the main course, all the staff parade toward us out of the dark, singing and dancing. One of the guys is holding a cake whose icing is green and yellow, two of the colors of the Tanzanian flag. Brian joins in the joyful dancing as the rest of us watch the entertainment with delight. Paul has supplied Amarula for everyone in our last two mobile camps for an after dinner drink. Everyone raises their glass for the last time in a salute to this wonderful safari, (I don’t like Amarula, but tonight I join in the ritual). Eventually, we all drift away to our tents to organize our things for our departure tomorrow.

The men singing and dancing on our last night in camp. Paul's photo

The men singing and dancing on our last night in camp. Paul’s photo

Paul and I are settling into our tent when Brian comes by and asks if we want to go with Sahidi, Daktari, and himself on a search for the bushbaby that is around the camp. Heck yes we do, we have never seen one of the noisy creatures and would love to add the bushbaby to our wildlife list. Sahidi leads the way as he shines a weak beam of light that barely penetrates the darkness a foot ahead of him. Brian, who is walking right behind Sahidi, finally adds his strong headlight beam into the treetops where Sahidi is shining his own light. We stumble around in the woods, dodging numerous spider webs and low hanging limbs. Sahidi is surprised that we do not find the tree-dwelling creature but agrees to come wake Paul and I up if the camp robber shows up later tonight.

As all of us are walking towards our tent, I continue to shine my light into the trees.  We have nearly reached our tent when my headlamp lights up a pair of eyes looking down at us from a nearby tree. Sure enough a bush baby is crawling around in the tree not 10 foot from our tent. Since we are neighbors to Vidole Juu and Uwiano, they come out to see what the fuss is about and join in watching the bushbaby. I am surprised at how small this animal is and wonder how it manages to make such a loud sound. Well, that was a great way to end our final night in the Selous. Later, when Paul and I get up to visit the back of the tent, we see glowing eyes in an adjacent tree. I look at it briefly and assume it is another or the same bushbaby. Paul takes a more careful look and discovers that the reflective eyes belong to a big rat. Lovely.

On our last morning in the Selous, many of us are at the lakes edge to watch the sun come up but this morning there are clouds just thick enough to keep us from having another beautiful sunrise. I have to walk away to get a little privacy from the group as tears are beginning to run down my checks. This always happens to me when it is time to leave Africa.

Brian reading a letter to the staff before we leave for Dar

Brian reading a letter to the staff before we leave for Dar

Reaction by the men to a part of Brian's letter

Reaction by the men to a part of Brian’s letter

After breakfast, Brian gathers all the camp staff and reads them a letter he has written in Swahili. We safarists have no clue what is being said but there are beaming smiles on the staff’s faces and often they break into laughter. We have all contributed tip money, which Brian presents to Christophe who will distribute the dough evenly among his coworkers. Luggage is loaded into the back of the Rovers and we climb into our vehicles to begin the long drive to Dar es Salaam.

Brian and the camp staff striking a cowabunga pose. Paul's photo

Brian and the camp staff striking a cowabunga pose. Paul’s photo

As we leave our camp I realize that tears are welling up again and I search for a kleenex as I keep my head averted from my fellow passengers. Rats, no kleenex and in a voice thick with emotion, I ask Paul to give me the kleenex out of my pack. Paul is in the back and he doesn’t understand what I want, but Nyama quickly hands me a tissue from her supply. Well that’s a bit embarrassing, but I can’t help it and I do manage to compose myself rather quickly.

The roads we are traversing are rough and dusty for the first part of our journey. The red roads take us through many small villages but we are driving fast over the bumpy tracks so taking photos is almost impossible. Eventually we turn onto a highway which leads us into Dar. We are stuck in one traffic jam due to a disabled truck which turns the busy highway into a one-way road. Ugh, the chaos of a big city is hard to take after the wilds of the bush.

Two women that passed us as we were having our last boxed lunch in Africa

Two women that passed us as we were having our last boxed lunch in Africa

A trio of Masai we encounter on the journey to Dar

A trio of Masai we encounter on the journey to Dar

As we are sitting at a stop light on the outskirts of Dar es Salaam a group of preteen boys are yelling at us and it isn’t hard to figure out by their body language and tone of voice that what they are saying isn’t “Welcome to Dar”! This intuition is confirmed when one of the youngsters extends his middle finger at us. Kevin yells something like “Ne, Ne” and when the boy looks at him, Kevin shakes his finger at him in admonishment. The tough guy wilts like a piece of day old lettuce when he sees the look of disapproval Kevin gives him. What a difference from the children in the country who yelled and waved at us with huge smiles on their faces. Welcome back to civilization!

Kevin’s demeanor has changed since we hit the big city traffic as he tries to keep up with the other two vehicles. His laid back attitude has turned serious and tense and I can surely relate to his mood. Before we go to our hotel, it was decided we would visit an area that sells local crafts. When we pull into the parking lot we agree to return to the vehicles at a set time then everyone goes their own way on a quest for souvenirs. Paul and I wander into a few of the dukas (shops) but we don’t find anything that reaches out and says, “buy me”. When we arrive back at the Rovers, it appears that everyone else has found a few souvenirs or gifts to take home with them.

The guides now deliver us to the Tanzanite hotel where we say our final goodbye to these men that have taken such good care of us in our travels. When we enter the Tanzanite it is good to know that this time they do have rooms for all of us!! We all retire to our rooms and agree to meet at 6:30 to go back to the Lebanese restaurant for supper. Paul and I shower and rest until it is time to meet our friends for our last supper in Africa. The food is as good as the first time although I’d trade it all for Christophe’s dinner rolls and pumpkin soup. We return to the hotel and manage to sleep for 3 hours before we leave for the airport at 12:30 a.m…

Check in at the Dar airport went smoothly until Paul discovered that he had not picked up his passport holder that contained his money clip (his passport was in his hand) out of the rubber tubs when we came through the security screening. An airport screener went back to check the baskets and returned telling us that she could not find the missing items. A security man comes over after observing our distress to learn what the problem is and decides to recheck the containers himself. We watch as he unstacks the containers and when he reaches into one and pulls out Paul’s passport holder and the money clip, relief floods through us. We profusely thank the fellow and join our friends in the waiting area.

Everyone has visited the airport shops and returned with various kinds of chocolate. Paul brought me m&m’s, a kitkat bar, and a few more chocolate candy bars. As you can see we were all desperately craving chocolate. Vidole Juu and Uwiano present me with a huge chocolate bar and they give Paul a bottle of Amarulla! How thoughtful is that!

Brian predicted that our plane would be 45 minutes late and he was exactly right. Once on board we settle into our seats and I soon discover that the woman next to me is not well as she goes into frequent coughing fits. One of the flight attendants is also ill and at one time when I visit the restroom at the back of the plane, she is literally in tears, holding a paper cup over one ear. That is a new one but I assume it must alleviate pain associated with an earache. If we escape any illness after this exposure it will be a miracle.

When we land in Istanbul we are behind schedule since we left Dar so late. There are five of us that are spending two days in this city, Brian, Daktari, Cheka, Vitabu and Paul and I, so we don’t have to rush off to catch another flight. Our safarists that are catching another flight hurry to get on the first buses that are waiting to take us from the plane to the terminal. We wave goodbye as the buses carrying our friends drive towards the airport buildings.

When the five of us get off our bus and walk into the terminal, we find Vidole Juu, Uwino, Nyama, and Ngruwe waiting for us. There are hugs all around and Nyama is teary eyed which makes us respond with our own eyes tearing up as we say a proper farewell. The foursome leaves us and move on toward the gate that will fly them home to Kansas. The five of us make our way to the baggage claim and are delighted when our bags appear immediately. We catch a glimpse of Tembo and Mbuzi as they are whisked to the gate for their flight. We wave goodbye to them, Mbuzi sees us but we can’t get Tembo’s attention.

When we exit the baggage area we find our driver holding up a sign with Hesse on it and we follow him to his car. We will spend two nights in Istanbul and I will write a separate blog on this fascinating and beautiful city.

This ends my version of our terrific safari in Tanzania. There was a request from a reader asking me to give the English version of our Swahili names. The cast of characters are as follows.

Bwana Vidole Juu-Mr. Fingers Up

Mama Uwiano-Balancing Lady

Bibi Nyama-Meat Lady

Bwana Ngruwe-Pig Man

Bibi Bahati Njema-Lady good luck

Bwana Mkatagiza Usiku- Mr. “he who cuts the night”

Bwana Cheka-Mr. Laugh

Bibi Vitabu-Ms. Books

Mista Tembo-Mr. Elephant/Tusker

Mama Mbuzi-Goat Lady

Bwana Mawe-Rock Man

Mama Uchunguzi-Research Lady

Daktari ya Moyo- The heart doctor

Mzungu Mrefu- A Tall White Guy-none other than our fearless safari leader Brian

Mama Ndege- Bird Lady

Bwana Mapumbo- Mr. Testicles

Some of these Swahili names, like mine, are straight forward. Others have a story behind the name such as Paul’s.

The end, Nancy

Three phases of a lion's yawn in three photos

Three phases of a lion’s yawn in three photos

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Selous Game Drives Part 12

Selous Game drives Part 12

A view of an oxbow lake

A view of an oxbow lake

Phew, it was hot sleeping in the tent last night. Those in our group whose tents were close to the oxbow lake (I think I wrote in the last blog our camp was by the river) said they had a nice breeze but the cooling wind didn’t reach our tent. Paul and I still slept sound enough that the only night music we heard was the grunting and complaining of feeding hippopotamus. Brian and Daktari had a Cape buffalo behind their tent that they startled during the night, sending the frightened buffalo crashing through the bushes. I’m glad we didn’t encounter that beast. Nyama and Ngruwe heard something eating next to their tent and I believe that it was Mawe and Uchunguzi that listened to an unidentified animal as it lapped up water from the river.

I did hear Sahidi (sp) our night watchman singing in a soft voice near our tent last night. When I asked him about his singing this morning he gave me a puzzled look and said he wasn’t singing. The mystery is solved at breakfast when I ask if anyone else heard singing last night. Our next door neighbor, Mkatagiza Usiku laughs and said that Njema was singing in her sleep. Ha, I wasn’t dreaming and I compliment Njema on her voice, it was quite lovely. Speaking of Sahidi, it seems the only thing he had to chase out of camp during his watch was a bush baby trying to get into the kitchen garbage bag.

Paul and the beautiful sunrise over the lake

Paul and the beautiful sunrise over the lake

There is a beautiful sunrise this morning and everyone is taking photos as the rising of the red sun draws colorful lines in the water. We are all up early this morning as the guides want to get out of camp as quickly as possible. After our breakfast we gather our gear and are exiting the camp by 8 a.m. Kevin wrests the Rover through the winding road leading from our camp until the narrow lane intersects with a main road.

The road takes us along the edge of one of the many oxbow lakes found in the Selous Refuge. Our guides drive the Rovers over dried up fingers of the lake to get us close to the edge of the water. These areas are pitted with the hoof prints that hippopotamus made when there was water here for the river horses to wallow in. As we bounce over the pockmarked ground, impromptu grunts and groans escape through our lips. On this game drive and the remaining game drives, whenever we see that our vehicle is going to cross another dry area of a lake a resigned murmur of regret filters through the truck. These rides were, to say the least, not comfortable but we certainly got close to the myriad of life along the water’s edge by enduring the bone jarring rides.

A pair of hippos relaxing

A pair of hippos relaxing

Face to face with a crocodile

Face to face with a crocodile

As we tour the lake shores, we observe the ubiquitous hippopotamus and crocodiles, plus an array of water birds. We see African Jacana whose long toes and big feet allow them to step around on the vegetation that covers the surface along the edge of the lake. There are Black-winged Stilts strutting in the water sporting bright pink legs, Three-banded Plovers, Herons, and Egrets and on and on. A birders paradise indeed.

African Jacanas

African Jacanas

Black-winged Stilt

Black-winged Stilt

Our convoy leaves the lake behind and we drive further into the interior of the Selous on the quest for land mammals which hopefully will include wild dogs. The landscape is dry and dusty and I often pull out my bandana and hold it over my nose and mouth in an effort to filter out some of the red dirt that is kicked into the air by the lead vehicles. This means I am hanging on to the roof tubing with only one hand, so when we hit the inevitable bumps, I ram into the side of the truck even harder than normal. In fact Nyama and I have traded seats at Nyama’s suggestion, and I paraphrase, so we will have both sides and arms equally sore instead of just one arm and side bruised and aching! At this rate, my left side will soon catch up to the soreness of my right side!

This morning, as was the case yesterday, we find numerous giraffe along our route, most of them staring curiously at us with their liquid black eyes. One exception to the placid giraffes is a pair of male “teenagers” that are practicing for combat that they are bound to take part in when they become adults. I wish I could share the video I have of the two playmates that shows their fighting technique. The youngsters will cock their long necks back towards their sides and then swing their long necks towards their opponent. The giraffes then land a blow with their head on their opponent. Imagine the similarity to a human holding a mace and cocking their arm back as far as they can, swinging the weapon through the air and landing a blow on their enemy with the maces head. The young giraffes are just goofing around but even so their heads land with some hefty thumps on each other’s body. What a battle must occur between adult male giraffes when they are fighting for real!

A tower of Giraffe

A tower of Giraffe

When we stop for a choo break, Brian asks if anyone wants to challenge him in a dung spitting contest. No, I’m not kidding you about this! Paul has already participated in this safari game in the past (I declined both times) so decides to forego the fun. The only human taker to the challenge is Vidole Juu, who takes it in stride when he learns this contest doesn’t mean you spit on dung, it means you put some dung in your mouth and see how far you can spit it. Impala dung is prevalent here and the dung is a nice, small, round pellet which works well, so I’m told. Vidole Juu gives it his all but comes up well short of the distance that the professional dung spitter Brian sends his round, black pellet. Paul decides our friend squid should give dung spitting a try but squid proves to be a poor participant and the impala poo lands at Paul’s feet.

Squid participating in the dung spitting contest with Paul's help

Squid participating in the dung spitting contest with Paul’s help

I might as well give you a short background on why we have a plastic squid traveling with us. Squid came into our lives when someone, (Paul’s sister Joy), found her lying on a beach and stuck the drink glass decoration in my purse while we were in Puerto Rico. The unwanted orange piece of plastic was snuck back into Joy’s possession before we left that beautiful island. Since then squid has been shuttled back and forth between Colorado and Kansas until we all ran out of ideas or friends who would help us in getting the wayward squid into each other’s house. We both began taking squid on our various travels, trying to outdo each other with photos of squid enjoying or in trouble on our respective vacations. We even got our Rover pals to help show our horror when squid was accidentally dropped out the window on one of our game drives in Ruaha and was consumed by an elephant! You will be relieved to know that we later discovered an intact squid in a pile of elephant poo :). Many of you probably think this is a bit silly, but we have had a lot of fun with our adventures with squid. Right now squid is in Paris with Joy, and seems to be enjoying her foo foo French holiday after the rough travel of Africa.

Squid Overboard!

Squid Overboard!

After our break, we travel on through areas that have a park like appearance. Tall acacia and other thorny bushes and trees are thinly scattered over grassy expanses. We find herds of impalas, zebra, more giraffe and a large herd of wildebeest, the first wildebeest we have seen in the Selous. We do not find any elephant.

As we are driving back to camp for lunch, we come across a small group of impalas in genuine alert mode. They are staring at a dense stand of brush, snorting and stamping their front legs. In time the females lose their nerve and take off running, but two males stand their ground and continue to sound the alarm. Our vehicles begin to drive on but we beg Kevin to wait a little bit longer since the bucks seem so sure that danger is lurking nearby. We stare in the same direction as the nearest male is looking, and soon a shadowy figure is seen walking in the bushes. Hyena! Oddly enough, this is the first hyena we have actually seen on our safari although we have heard plenty of the skulking beasts calling at night.

The young hyena has no fear of our vehicles and continues ambling to the edge of the brush line where he lays down on the far side of the nearest bush to our vehicles.  Our sister vehicles drive to where the hyena is lying in order to get a clearer look at the creature. When our companions finish observing the hyena we take their place so we can take a few photos before leaving the sleepy animal alone. The heck of it is that when I am going through my photos of our first hyena sighting, I think I am hitting the protect button for these photos and instead I have been deleting them! Brother, I have mistakenly deleted photos before so you would think I would have learned my lesson. I only have one photo, see below, of the hyena peering out of the bush when he walked to the edge of the brush line not far from our Rover.

My surviving photo of the hyena

My surviving photo of the hyena

After lunch, and I have no clue what we were served but I’m sure it was excellent, we take a break and rest from the rough drive of this morning. In order to get some air through our tent we follow the example of our safari leader and a couple of other safarists and open both ends of our tent. There doesn’t seem to be many bugs around and this is definitely worth doing as it makes the interior of our tent much more comfortable. There is a convoy of ants that discover the opening in the back of our tent, but drawing my finger through the dirt forms a barrier that the small brown insects will not cross. Why does that work??

It’s midafternoon when we leave for our afternoon game drive. Our drivers are setting a good pace and seem to have a destination in mind, as they don’t seem to be looking too hard for game. We pass by a large herd of wildebeest lounging in the shade of the trees, well back from the road. In Paul and my memory which very well might be wrong, we lose sight of the other two vehicles and Kevin must get directions from Mochie over the radio in order to find our fellow safarists. When we see our friends they are parked near the road underneath a couple of acacia trees. There are clumps of ground plants with spiky, palm like leaves growing around the acacias. When we drive up to join the rest of our group the first thing we see is a Wild Dog lying flat on its side. The male dog’s bloated belly is protruding into the air, and if I couldn’t clearly see that this animal is a male, I would have guessed it was a pregnant female!  Alright, Paul and I can finally add the sighting of wild dogs to our African safari highlights!! This is no small feat, as the wild dog numbers are on the decline and only found in a few places in East Africa.

I'm not sure this Painted dog could move if he wanted to.

I’m not sure this Painted dog could move if he wanted to.

The wild dogs hiding in the ground Palm bush(I made that name up)

The wild dogs hiding in the ground Palm bush(I made that name up)

Brian is riding in our vehicle and is as excited as any of us at the sight of these interesting canines. Judging by the first dogs extended stomach, it appears that the pack is lying around digesting their lunch, while also escaping the blazing sun as they nestle among the ground palms. It is easy to see why wild dogs are also called painted dogs since the mottled coats of the animals look like someone lobbed pellets of yellow, white and black paint at the canines which decorated their hides in a modern art style. If you’re a horse person I suppose you could call them the Appaloosa of the canine world.

It is easy to see why they are nicknamed Painted Dogs.

It is easy to see why they are nicknamed Painted Dogs.

Look at the size of those ears!

Look at the size of those ears!

I didn’t record in my journal how many dogs there were in this pack but it seemed that when you thought you had seen them all another one would stick its nose out from the serrated leaves of one of the palm like bushes. Often, one of the long-legged dogs  emerge from its resting place, panting from the heat, and walks a short distance to crawl into a neighboring bush, making the palm leaves rattle like a bamboo wind chime. Several of the dogs were content to lay, sit, or stand in the open under the tall acacias oblivious to their human admirers.

One of the dogs posing like Rin Tin Tin. Boy am I dating myself

One of the dogs posing like Rin Tin Tin. Boy am I dating myself

The dogs have long legs that allow them to run after their prey for long distances.

The dogs have long legs that allow them to run after their prey for long distances.

There is one male who seems uneasy with the closeness of humans and he whines then gets to his feet walking across the road to hide in another bush. The slender dog reappears and trots off down the road and then returns. Eventually he entices a couple of his pack mates to follow him and they walk into a patch of tall grass and disappear.

The male dog that wasn't comfortable with his human admirers

The male dog that wasn’t comfortable with his human admirers

As I am watching the dogs out the back of the vehicle, we begin to move and I ask out loud “what are we doing”. The next thing I know Kevin has driven the Rover up to a Palm bush and tapped it with the bumper. No one can quite believe what Kevin just did and Brian admonishes him and tells him not to scare the dogs, which we did of course! I’m not sure if it was Bacari or Mochie who performed the same stunt on a different bush almost simultaneously with Kevin. I wonder if our drivers have pulled this trick before because the result is that several dogs jump to their feet and exit their hiding place.  None of us are happy about the incident and Usiku tells us later that Njema declares that we are harassing the painted dogs and insists that they leave immediately. Good for Njema. I am puzzled by the action of the two drivers because I know they have a genuine respect for the wildlife.

We have a long trip back to our camp and on the return trip we catch a glimpse of a Red Duiker. We nearly drive by a tree full of Black and White Colobus monkeys that are feeding. Most of the monkeys scamper away through the treetops when we stop to observe them. Two braver monkeys continue to forage and one of them performs a gravity defying reach for a particularly tempting morsel. I wonder what the purpose is of the long mantle of white hair that grows from these monkeys shoulders. Whatever the reason the silky white hair is very striking.

I hope the food that tempted the monkey to reach for it in this dangerous way was worth it!

I hope the food that tempted the monkey to reach for it in this dangerous way was worth it!

Black and White Colobus monkey showing the mantle of long white hair.

Black and White Colobus monkey showing the mantle of long white hair.

As we are driving along the lakeside, Kevin stops and points out a Black Stork which is also known as the Umbrella bird. We are astonished by the hunting tactics of the bird and I swear my mouth is agape as we watch the jet black bird search for food. The Stork will take two or three steps, throw its wings into a circle that completely covers its head and body, rustle its feathers and then when it drops its wings, there is often a small fish wriggling in the bird’s beak. All of us are quite taken by the Umbrella birds performance and someone, (was it you Ngruwe?), quips that all we need is some Dracula theme music to accompany the show. That is a perfect analogy, because when the bird throws his black wings over himself it is akin to Dracula throwing his black cape across his face!

The Black Stork or Umbrella bird covering himself with his wings as he hunts.

The Black Stork or Umbrella bird covering himself with his wings as he hunts.

The Black Stork coming uncovered.

The Black Stork coming uncovered.

Well, the day is waning and we have returned to camp ready for a feast from Christophe. We line up for the showers and keep the camp workers busy pouring hot water into the bucket showers. What an exciting day we have had with all our animal and bird encounters. The icing on the cake naturally is seeing the elusive and rare Wild dogs. Supa!!

Next blog, one last full day in the Selous. Nancy

A Game Float down the Rufiji River, Part 11

A game float down the Rufiji River, Part 11

This sign was by the road that is in front of the lodge:)

This sign was by the road that is in front of the lodge:)

Last night we had visitors next to our “tent”. We sat in bed and watched the pachyderms by the light of the moon, as they noisily foraged on the leaves from the trees that stand next to our tent. One of the massive beasts bumped into the wooden deck as the group were walking by, causing the whole structure to shake. Wow, if an inadvertent bump can make this place shudder just think how easily an elephant could dismantle our abode if it really wanted to.

I also wake up at some point to the loud call of that same darn bird I have been hearing since our mobile camp in Mikumi, except I have figured out now that it isn’t a bird making the incessant noise but the squall of a bush baby! As many times as we have been to Africa you would think we would have known this sound!  Anyway, I listen to the bush baby crying, when suddenly there is the sound of scuffling among the leaves and grass next to our tent, a muffled squawk, then silence. I think I just heard a kill tonight! I wonder what preys on bush babies? There was also the snorting and grunting of many hippos during the night. I love that African night music!

Paul and I get up early to pack our luggage and when we are finished we sit out on the deck, listening to the early morning sounds as Africa wakes up. The birds are numerous and vocal but the elephants and hippos have gone quiet. At 7:30 we go to eat breakfast with the rest of our group. As we visit we learn that Mkatagiza Usiku and Bahati Njema, who are in the tent next to us, also had the elephants visit them last night. Usiku decided to observe them from the porch but soon changed his mind when one of the elephants began walking towards him. Usiku hastily retreated to the safety of his canvas room! We also were told that yesterday, Bibi Vitabu was temporarily trapped in her tent when a group of elephants were eating around it! Cool.

Paul relaxing on our porch

Paul relaxing on our porch

Since we are to be checked out of our tents by eleven that means we must leave our luggage at the checkout area after breakfast because we won’t be back from our river trip by then. Paul and I lounge around our room after breakfast until just before nine, then take our luggage and packs and drop them off with the man at the desk. We go back to the restaurant and meet up with the rest of our group and the guides that are taking us out on the Rufiji River. The guides lead us down to two pontoons and we split into two groups. The group we are with includes Nyama, Ngruwe, Njema, Usiku, Uchunguzi, and Mawe. Our guide is Apollo (I can remember that name!), and we also have a river boat pilot.

Apollo, our guide

Apollo, our guide

Our fellow travelers preparing to leave for our trip down the Rufiji River

Our fellow travelers preparing to leave for our trip down the Rufiji River

Lovely scenery and sky

Lovely scenery and sky

After our scary encounter on the Zambezi River on our last trip to Africa, I said I would never get into a boat and go down a river in Africa again. I can’t say I’m all that excited to board our boat, but I have given myself a pep talk and here I am. At least we aren’t making the trip in a canoe. It is a beautiful day, the wind is calm and the African sky is filled with fair weather clouds. The river soon proves to be teeming with hippopotamus and crocodiles. In fact one of the rules Apollo recited to us is don’t dangle arms or legs over the side of the boat, adding to that directive, the ominous news that many people have been killed by crocodiles along the river this year. This is a very long river so hopefully those statistics include the entire length of the Rufiji and not just this area.

Look at the channel created by the ridges along each side of the croc's tail.

Look at the channel created by the ridges along each side of the croc’s tail.

This is why you keep your arms and legs inside the boat!

This is why you keep your arms and legs inside the boat!

Our boat hasn’t traveled far when a hippo makes a big splash near the side of the boat I am riding on. I instinctively scoot away from the edge of the boat as if that would do any good, should the animal decide to upend us! I watch another hippo run into the water as another boat passes close to where the animal was standing on the shore, but it appears the big brute just wanted to get to the water for its own safety. You can’t believe how fast these hefty animals can run for a short distance! I manage to relax after our river cruise is well under way, although whenever a line of ears and eyes appear in a channel of water my heart rate increases. I always give a sigh of relief when our boat skipper makes a wide berth around the line of belligerent looking hippos that appear to be daring anyone to cross the line in the water they have physically made.

A watchful hippopotamus

A watchful hippopotamus

We dare you to cross this line.

We dare you to cross this line.

Where there is water there are birds and we see them everywhere. It is a kick to see Egrets perching on the back of hippopotamus as if they were big boulders. Wonderfully colored birds like the Malachite Kingfisher bring appreciative aahs from its human observers. There are Goliath Heron, aptly named because they surely must stand nearly as tall as me. We see flocks of White-fronted Bee-eaters and float by a bank where the small birds have hollowed out holes in the soil for nests. We find the common, but regal Fish Eagle, that somewhat resembles our Bald Eagle. We motor up to a rookery where Spoonbills, Ibis, and Yellow-billed Storks are nesting. The rookery is noisy, smelly, busy, but makes for some interesting behavior for us to watch.

A convenient perch for this Egret

A convenient perch for this Egret

A Beautiful Malachite Kingfisher

A Beautiful Malachite Kingfisher

Goliath Heron

Goliath Heron

Some of the Rookery

Some of the Rookery

We float by Waterbuck, Elephants, one old Cape buffalo, Giraffe, Bushbuck and lots and lots of Hippos and Crocodiles. All the animals are more skittish than we found them in Mikumi and Ruaha due to the fact that big game hunting is still allowed in the southern part of the Selous Game Reserve. I can understand hunting if you consume the meat of what you kill, but for the life of me, I don’t understand how anyone can kill these incredible animals just so they can hang a head on the wall or lay a pelt on their floor or to possess a piece of ivory.  I’d rather have photographs of the image of a living animal hanging in my house, which of course I do.

Elephants along the shoreline

Elephants along the shoreline

Waterbuck

Waterbuck

The two boats carrying our safari group have not stayed together as the skippers take us down the Rufiji River. We do meet up when our guides dock the boats on the river bank so we can stretch our legs, have some cold soda, and find a bush if necessary.  It is really hot by now so we are surely grateful the pontoons have a canvas top for shade when we load back on the boats and start back towards the Lodge.

Brian goes barefooted a lot on the safari!

Brian goes barefooted a lot on the safari!

Stretching our legs and having a cold soda

Stretching our legs and having a cold soda

We were gone on our floating game drive for five hours and if I understood correctly we covered about 35 miles! Needless to say we are ready for lunch when we tie up to the dock of the Lodge, as it is well past noon.

While we are having lunch there is a troop of Vervet monkeys scoping out the restaurant. The majority of the monkeys leave but one member of the group climbs into the restaurant rafters, greedily eyeing our food. One of the wait staff claps his hands and manages to shoo away the would be thief. When the staff begins stacking plates, some with leftover food on them, on a side table, a Vervet monkey dashes into the open air restaurant and grabs a handful of spaghetti off of one of the plates. The thief scampers away as a waiter runs towards the rascal to chase him from the premises. The monkey seems to think that his pilfered spaghetti is in need of a piece of the Italian bread that was served with the lunch and dashes into the room again, grabbing a half-eaten piece of bread from another plate. He sits within a few feet of the restaurant and consumes this stolen feast. I’m pretty sure that the primate has committed food heists many times before. Well, at least the little beggar didn’t grab the food off our plates while we were eating!

Our drivers arrive not long after we have finished eating and it is good to be reunited with our guides/friends. We climb into our respective vehicles and begin driving to the last mobile camp of this exceptional safari. Naturally, we stop for any game we see along the way. The most numerous animal found on our game drive this afternoon is giraffe. I just can’t believe how many giraffe we have seen on this safari! We also see Dik-dik, Bushbuck, Waterbuck, birds and several squirrels. We keep a look out for wild dogs but the canines are not to be found. Maybe tomorrow?

One of many giraffe on our drive to the camp

One of many giraffe on our drive to the camp

A bushbuck we saw on the way to our mobile camp

A bushbuck we saw on the way to our mobile camp

My goodness, Vidole Juu and Uwiano are kept busy warning their fellow passengers to watch out for the various limbs that are slapping at the vehicle as the Rovers wend their way through the narrow lane that is lined with trees. There are places where it seems the road will never be wide enough for our truck to pass through but Kevin skillfully maneuvers the Rover through the tight spots. We arrive at our final camp which is situated in another beautiful setting. I’m not sure how Brian manages to reserve these remote camping sites but I’m guessing it isn’t an easy task.

The camp staff has worked hard at setting up the camp and is still putting the finishing touches on the camp as we arrive. They haven’t been in the Selous very long so their effort to get the camp prepared for us is quite an accomplishment. You can see that the men are exhausted and rightly so after their marathon drive from Ruaha. The staff only has one shower erected and most of us decide we can do without a shower tonight in order to give these terrific people a small break.

A small sample of the camp

A small sample of the camp

The dining area at the camp. Our group members swapping stories

The dining area at the camp. Our group members swapping stories

Our night watchman

Our night watchman

The isolated camp is situated near the river where hippopotamus can be seen up and down the river, and a few of the blubber butts are half-submerged in the water not far from our camp. For the first time on our safari we have a night watchman to watch over our camp while we sleep. It’s been a long day but a good day and it was fun to have a different perspective of the wild animals from the seat of a boat. Our game drive to our new mobile camp, though rough, showed the promise of good things to come in the last two days of our stay in Selous.

This beautiful scene is just a few steps away from the dining area.

This beautiful scene is just a few steps away from the dining area.

Next blog, Morning and Afternoon game drive in Selous, Nancy

Leaving Ruaha and Flying to Selous Part 10

Leaving Ruaha and Flying to Selous Part 10

Jennifer (Nyama) sent us this photo. We and others were often in this pose!

Jennifer (Nyama) sent us this photo. We and others were often in this pose!

Tonight Christophe lays a feast in front of us starting with Pumpkin soup and dinner rolls. I love African soups but Pumpkin soup is my absolute favorite! The thick, slightly sweet soup is just superb and I savor every spoonful. The soup is followed by mashed potatoes and swiss steak which is quite tasty.

At some point during the meal, Brian asks us to try to get out of our tents as early as possible tomorrow so the staff can begin dismantling our camp. I hate to even think about leaving because I love this camp. Mikumi was fine but the sights and sounds of human civilization were not far away from our little encampment. Here in the Ruaha camp it feels like we are the only humans around. Heck, maybe we are the only people camping in the Park. I don’t remember seeing any other camping sites, at least not close to ours.

We will be flying to Selous while the camp staff will have to drive for a day and a half to arrive. We only need to pack what we need for an overnight at our Lodge, and the excess luggage will be packed in the Rovers. Wait a minute, what was all the hoopla about only bringing 25 pounds of luggage because our in country flight only allowed this much per person on the plane. I think someone pulled one over on us!

Toasting bread for our last breakfast in Ruaha

Toasting bread for our last breakfast in Ruaha

Paul and I are up early, and the camp staff is already pulling down their own tents.  Paul and I carry our beds and night stand outside of the tent to save the guys from that chore. There is supposed to be an area to put the luggage we are taking on the plane, and a separate area to put the luggage that will travel with our drivers. Paul and I are trying to find out what goes where, when we notice one of the workers is starting to pull our tent stakes. We rush back and explain that our luggage is still inside the tent. My goodness, the guys really are in a hurry to get rolling down the road.

Our camp staff dismantling the tents.

Our camp staff dismantling the tents.

Once we have rescued our luggage and deposited it in the correct piles, I make my way to the river bed. I stand in the dry channel, enjoying the solitude in the cool African morning. As I survey the area, I see a small group of baboon sitting in the sand as they soak up the warmth of the first sun rays. Just beyond the primates, a giraffe glides in aslow motion walk into the river bottom and crosses to the other side. The giraffe slowly melts away into the trees which add to the dream like quality of the scene. A few hundred yards from me, the bushes lining the river bank begin shivering and rustling, and baboons begin streaming out of the thick foliage. This is a large troop of baboons with many youngsters among them. Some of the little ones chase each other around the sandy channel in a game of tag that often ends in a wrestling match. The small group of baboons that were peacefully soaking up the sun began running for the tree line the minute the invading group appeared. I guess that means they aren’t friends!

The invading Baboon troop

The invading Baboon troop

Paul, Brian, and Bwana Mawe have come to check things out and Brian suggests we walk across the channel to the jumble of rocks adjacent to us. As we near the halfway point, there are elephant footprints imprinted in the golden sand. We stroll on until we reach the tumble of rocks. We catch a glimpse of rock hyrax running for cover as we intrude upon the small mammal’s home. A flock of Southern Blue-eared starlings land in the leafy branches of a nearby tree, instantly turning it into a Christmas tree, decorated in neon blue, living ornaments. Though I am sad to be leaving here, this last morning has certainly been a memorable one.

Southern Blue-eared starlings that landed in the trees

Southern Blue-eared starlings that landed in the trees

It’s time to leave this special place and make our way to the dirt airstrip where we will board prop planes that will fly us to Selous. There must not be time for a leisurely, final game drive in Ruaha, as our guides are clipping down the road at 25 or 30 mph. I try to stand and watch for game despite the wind whipping in my face and the extra effort it takes to hang on to the roof framework but I finally cry “uncle” and sit down, peering out the window as the landscape flashes by. Ngruwe calls out for Kevin to stop and once the truck shudders to a halt, Ngruwe instructs Kevin to back up until we arrive at the place where he caught a glimpse of something that didn’t fit in with the surroundings. Sure enough, we are looking at the back of a pair of ears and neck with the rest of the critter hidden by the dead grass it is lying in. The shutters of our camera are snapping away as we are congratulating Ngruwe on such a fabulous spot.

Suddenly, Brian stops taking photos and announces that what looks so cat-like is actually the remnants of a burned stump! I look through my binoculars and sure enough those feline ears are charred protrusions left behind from some past fire. Our laughter isn’t aimed at the initial man who spotted the Serval like stump, Ngruwe’s spot was still astonishing, but at ourselves for the way our minds took this stump and made it into a living creature. Yesterday on our game drive, Ngruwe and I called out nearly simultaneously, “there is a turtle”. Kevin stopped the Rover, backed up and our turtle turned out to be made of rock. This “turtle” was atop a large boulder that was lying in a dry stream bed which of course made no sense. However, when you are driving at a fair speed and in the mindset to find wildlife, often your brain will oblige you by turning inanimate objects into a creature. I never worry much about this kind of mistake, it is better to call out and be wrong than to keep quiet and take the chance that what you saw really was a wild animal.

The Serval stump Ngruwe saw as we flew down the road. It sure looks like a cat.

The Serval stump Ngruwe saw as we flew down the road. It sure looks like a cat.

Zooming in on the "serval" which turns out to be a stump

Zooming in on the “serval” which turns out to be a stump

The actual Serval cat we saw on a prior game drive. You can see why Ngruwe thought he had found another Serval. This is Jennifer's photo

The actual Serval cat we saw on a prior game drive. You can see why Ngruwe thought he had found another Serval. This is Jennifer’s photo

We have fallen behind the other two vehicles and Mochie is beseechingly calling Kevin’s name over the two-way radio “Kevin, K e e v i i n”. This becomes a source of amusement for those of us riding with Kevin and when we need to ask our driver something or if he is busy with other things, we often mimic Mochie’s plaintive call to get his attention. It’s all in good fun of course and it makes Kevin laugh. This time the call for Kevin isn’t because we are lost but because Mochie’s vehicle is getting a flat tire and he needs help.

Changing the flat tire

Changing the flat tire

We finally catch sight of Mochies’ truck and as we are crossing a low spot in the road, Ngruwe points and declares that a Dik-dik is standing in the small ravine. I look in the direction of the pointed finger and sure enough I catch a glimpse of the tiny antelope staring at us.  When we reach the disabled vehicle, a few of us decide to walk down to where Ngruwe saw the teeny antelope in hopes we might get a photo. Although the Dik-dik is still standing in the same spot, five people on foot are too much for the little guy to handle and he takes off running. Well, we knew that getting a photo was a long shot but our short hike at least killed some time while the tire is being changed.

The airport and one of the elephants near the landing strip

The airport and one of the elephants near the landing strip

We arrive at the Park airport at ten a.m. and see two small planes parked on the “terminal”:). There are also two bull elephants moseying around the short landing strip which reminds you that this isn’t your ordinary airport. When our luggage and box lunches have been unloaded and carried to the outside waiting area, our drivers wave goodbye, and begin their overland journey to the Selous. There are no pilots around but our flight isn’t scheduled to leave until noon so we aren’t worried. There are two gazebo like structures for passengers to sit in while they await their in country flight, and Bwana Cheka jokingly asks if our flight leaves from terminal A or terminal B. The wisecrack makes everyone laugh as we settle onto the benches inside the shelters to escape the hot sun. I suddenly realize that today is Paul’s birthday, so quietly wish him happy birthday and apologize for not remembering it until now. Paul told Brian and me a few days ago that he didn’t want any big deal made about his birthday. Well, I guess I took Paul’s request to heart since I nearly forgot all about it!

The two planes we thought were ours

The two planes we thought were ours

Terminal A & B

Terminal A & B

Twelve o’clock arrives with no sign of any pilots so some of us decide to eat the boxed lunches Christophe made for us. Another group of tourists have arrived and they join us under the welcome shade of the rest areas. At 1:15 our pilots show up and begin readying the planes for us passengers. The other group of tourists walks out to the planes and is talking to the pilots. Brian goes to join the group and is also conversing with the bush pilots. Several of us are watching the scene and witness Brian turn on his heel, slap the papers he has with him against his open hand, and note that his usual easy gait is now a no-nonsense walk. Uh oh, we all agree that if we are reading Brian’s body language correctly that he has not received good news.

Brian breaks the bad news to us that it seems these are not our planes after all. Hmm. The good news is they have room for four of us to fly out with them and a bit later they decide they can make room for five of our group of sixteen. We all agree that Tembo, Mbuzi, Daktari, Njema and Usiku should board the plane and the rest of us will, hopefully, join them later.

It doesn’t take long for luggage and passengers to be loaded on the planes and those of us left behind line up and wave goodbye as the plane carrying our companions, lifts off the red dirt runway and in no time is just a speck above the African bush. Nyama, tongue in cheek (I think), wonders if we will ever see our travel companions again. We note that this airstrip has no lighting so if our pilot doesn’t arrive soon we may be spending the night on the benches of terminal A & B!

We kid about how they could use wildlife to hold lanterns, which prompts Brian to pantomime how things would go if they used elephants for the job.  Brian uses his arm to represent the elephant’s trunk and slowly sweeps his arm back and forth like elephants really do move their trunks. With a little imagination you can visualize what a disaster this would be for a plane landing in the dark! I suggest impalas could be used since they are so numerous, which prompts Brian to demonstrate how the constant movement of an impalas head would not be conducive for night lighting either. By the time Brian is through with his impromptu skits we are laughing so hard that we have forgotten for the moment we are stranded without plane or vehicles in the middle of Ruaha.

I found this lizard near the bathrooms. Look how he is holding his toes up off of the hot surface of the log.

I found this lizard near the bathrooms. Look how he is holding his toes up off of the hot surface of the log.

To pass the time many of us begin reading or writing in our journals, but a foursome begins playing poker with the participants using the gravel beneath their feet for money. At one point I see that Nyama is accumulating a nice pile of rocks in front of her and later Brian seems to have won all the pieces of granite. Brian takes handfuls of the pebbles and rubs them over his chest as he wallows in his riches, but somehow it doesn’t work quite as well as actual greenbacks do. Still the action is hilarious which is the point of course.

The big poker game. Brian had to make do with a bone for a chair.

The big poker game. Brian had to make do with a bone for a chair.

Hello, a plane has appeared in the sky and begins its decent to the little runway. As he coasts into the terminal we all assume that this is our flight out of here. The young pilot alights from the plane and makes his way towards us, all smiles, but continues past us to the bathroom. Rats, he isn’t our pilot, he is just friendly.  There are some other people waiting in their vehicles near the plane parking area and they are the lucky passengers. As he passes the” terminals” on his way back to his plane, he smiles and says “good luck”. Somehow that isn’t a phrase I want to hear!

The landing plane that wasn't ours.

The landing plane that wasn’t ours.

A troop of baboons have shown up to occupy the empty airstrip and Ngruwe starts contemplating what would happen if the primates began rearranging the white-painted cement blocks that line the edges of the landing strip. By the time his imagination has played out on what the baboons are saying and what their mischief would cause the pilot and plane, I am doubled over with laughter. I suppose we are a little slap happy and that you really had to be there to appreciate the humor, but I am chuckling just typing this. The pilot is starting down the runway and we watch to see if the baboons will play chicken with the plane. All but one of the baboons exit the airstrip before the plane gets close and this brave fellow stands his ground a bit longer.

Surely, this is our plane coming in for a landing! The small plane comes trundling down the runway, dust billowing out behind it. The rather harried looking pilot affirms that he indeed is here to fly us to the Selous! Hurray, we won’t be spending the night here after all! Seriously, we only waited a little over an hour after our travel mates left although it seemed longer than that.

Boarding our plane

Boarding our plane

Our luggage disappears into the belly of the prop plane and we climb into the close confines of the planes’ interior. Those that suffer from motion sickness are at the front, Paul and I take the back seats since we have no problem with this malady. As we lift into the air I look down at the earth beneath us and see hippo in a river we are passing over, later I spy a group of elephants that look like miniature versions of real life elephants from my bird’s eye view in the air. I’m going to miss Ruaha.

O.K. maybe this is the real reason they made us sit in the back! Obviously screening is not part of flying in country:). Brian actually posed and took this photo.

O.K. maybe this is the real reason they made us sit in the back! Obviously screening is not part of flying in country:). Brian actually posed and took this photo.

Hippos from the air

Hippos from the air

An hour and a half later our plane is bumping down another dirt air strip and it comes to a halt near two open-topped vehicles that probably are waiting to take us to Rufuji River Lodge. Yep, they are waiting for us and the friendly drivers welcome us to Selous. The drive to the lodge takes only a few minutes and we are reunited with the rest of our group, who are settled comfortably in the lounge, enjoying some liquid refreshment! Those of us who just arrived are handed a complimentary juice drink and a small piece of cake. After this welcome, we are assigned our rooms and given instructions on the running of the Lodge. One of those rules is that a Masai will take us to our rooms and come escort us to the restaurant tonight, as wild animals roam freely through the grounds. We trudge after our chaperone for what seems like a mile to our room (oh, I’m exaggerating). We aren’t the last ones in the line of chalets though, that honor goes to Ngruwe and Nyama.

Our tent at The Rufuji River Lodge

Our tent at The Rufuji River Lodge

Our room is a tent but just a tad different from our mobile camp tents. These are luxury tents that have a wood frame over them making them look like a house. We have a porch that is on two sides of the structure and inside the tent is a large room with two king size beds, an open closet for hanging your clothes along with benches for your luggage, a desk in another corner of the tent, along with authentic African articles in the room for decoration. There also is a large bathroom partitioned off on one end of the room. We have no time to relax as we are going to take a quick game drive before dusk so we deposit our luggage and return to the check in area.

There are two safari vehicles waiting and once everyone is situated we are off on our first game drive in the Selous. Our driver and guide are a fountain of information and can answer about any question you can think to ask them. Our first sighting is a group of elephant foraging around some of the maintenance buildings belonging to the lodge. As we drive along the Rufuji River we see giraffe, waterbuck, and warthogs, plus some new birds. The most exciting being the Bohms Bee-eater whose range is fairly small, so we were fortunate to see one. I later see a Bohms outside our tent so am doubly lucky. Kevin really wanted to see this bird but we never found the colorful bird after we left the Lodge.

A fuzzy photo of the Bohms Bee-eater outside our room

A fuzzy photo of the Bohms Bee-eater outside our room

After returning from our short but productive game drive, Paul and I decide to shower before supper. Brr, our water is cold because these showers are heated by solar power and there wasn’t much sun today. Our Masai shows up at the allotted time and walks us to the restaurant. There is a long table set up for our large group and we find a place to sit, ready to enjoy a good meal. I have no clue what was served for dinner but after we have finished the meal, the staff comes in singing and carrying a birthday cake. Actually they have brought two small cakes, about the size of cupcakes. Brian explains that since Paul requested that he not make a big deal about his birthday, Brian settled for having the chef make these two small cakes to represent Paul’s Swahili name, Mapumbo. For those of you who don’t know, Paul’s Swahili name is Bwana Mapumbo and it means Mr. Testicles. You can ask Paul how he obtained this name on a prior safari, but he didn’t earn the name for what you are thinking right now!! Brian took the photo of Paul and his birthday cakes.

Paul and his Mapumbo cakes.

Paul and his Mapumbo cakes.

Paul accepts the fact that his birthday is going to be celebrated whether he likes it or not and accepts the attention with smiles and grace. Paul tries to divvy up the chocolate, brownie treats so everyone can at least have a bite. It is delicious and now I wish we had a whole cake! The celebration isn’t over as a trio of Masai sings and demonstrates their incredible ability to leap into the air. The leaps one man in particular can do from a standstill would make any college coach drool with anticipation of having him on the team. The Masai are rewarded with applause and compliments from our group for their excellent performance. It was a great way to end the evening.  When we are ready to return to our rooms the Masai performers are also our escorts.

Next blog, a game float from a boat on the Rufugi River, Nancy

All Day Game Drive in Ruaha, Part 9

All day game drive in Ruaha, Part 9

Elephants and Baobab trees in Ruaha National Park

Elephants and Baobab trees in Ruaha National Park

In camp tonight, the usual activities play out, some of us wash clothes, look through photos, and we keep the camp staff busy heating water so we can shower. In fact the water for my shower is so hot tonight; I must step in and out of the water stream to keep from being scalded. Whew!

When we sit down to eat we visit about the day, laugh a lot, and enjoy the food Christophe has prepared, as usual the meal is accompanied by his famous dinner rolls. I know, I’m obsessed with those rolls but I am not the only one. For some reason, Christophe always has one more dinner roll than diners. This extra roll is always devoured by someone in our group, and at times two or three people divide the roll among them. I remember one evening when, Oscar I think, tried to remove the extra dinner roll from the table, and Vidole Juu told him not to even think of taking it away, making everyone around the table laugh. I think Oscar was hoping to consume the wondrous roll himself!

Tonight with the full moon shining down on the African bush, we again are serenaded by a patrolling lion as we are going to bed.  The lion sounds much closer than the lion did last night, and this fellow repeats his territorial proclamation more than once. You would think a lion roaring and huffing about his importance would make one sit straight up in bed. For me I struggle to keep my eyes open so I can listen to the magnificent animal’s voice. In the end I drift off to sleep, the lion’s song still drifting through air.

Tea, coffee, and juice bar in the bush

Tea, coffee, and juice bar in the bush

I’m up early and follow the same ritual as yesterday morning. I wash up in cold water and take hot tea with me as I walk to the river bed. I tread cautiously as I make my way through the bunchy grass until I reach the open area of the dry river. This morning the river channel is quiet and empty. Perhaps the noisy lion passed through here last night and scared all the wildlife away. Paul, Ngruwe, and Nyama soon join me, in hopes that the honey badger might show up again but he doesn’t put in an appearance.  I imagine I gave the badger such a scare yesterday that he will avoid this area of his territory for a few days!

Our guides encourage us to get around a bit earlier this morning as they are hoping to find the lion that was broadcasting his presence near our camp last night. As we drive through the narrow, wood lined, road leading away from our camp, Nyama points and exclaims, and I paraphrase, “there is something”. Yes there is, as a pair of Dik-diks is standing under a thorn-bush near the road! These diminutive antelope always remind me of a cross between a large rabbit and an antelope. Their almond-shaped eyes and narrow snout being rabbit like, but having the slender long legs and body of an antelope. I guess Nyama sees the same resemblance to a rabbit because another time when she spotted the tiny creatures, she yelled out “rabbit”! Throughout our remaining game drives, I remember that Nyama, Ngruwe, and Vidole Juu always find the Dik-diks; perhaps Paul and Uwiano spotted some too. I just know that I never see the little buggers until someone else alerts me to them, but I will give the lame excuse that I am usually searching further away from the roadside and the Dik-dik we see are always near the road.

One of the Dik-dik's that Nyama found.

One of the Dik-dik’s that Nyama found.

When our convoy emerges from the trees and we enter the more open area of the park, everyone sees a creature standing in the distance. I have this mental image of all of us peering at the object bare eyed, trying to discern what we are looking at despite the fact that most of us have binoculars hanging around our necks!  Once we have the sense to use our binoculars, the unidentifiable object materializes into an enormous, golden-maned lion.   I yell out “it’s a lion!” and find myself jumping up and down on the seat like a kid jumping on their bed. I am a little embarrassed when I become aware of what truly is an involuntary reaction by me, but since I have no recollection of what my vehicle mates say or do at this moment, I am hoping they were oblivious to me too. The way the lion is standing proudly with his head up, looking defiant, while confidently portraying the fact that he knows he is King of this part of the jungle. This scene reminds me of what one would see at the opening credits of an old-time movie. Is this the owner of the voice that was roaring last night? I think it is a pretty good bet that it is.

Fabio standing proudly in the African bush when we first saw him.

Fabio standing proudly in the African bush when we first saw him.

As our vehicles move toward the mature male, he lies down in the grass and we are able to take our time in photographing this incredible specimen. The lion is immaculately groomed and I believe it was Mbuzi who commented later in the day, please forgive me if I am mistaken on this fellow safarists, that it appeared as though the beautiful cat had just stepped out of a beauty parlor. Indeed the lion’s mane is tangle free, and gleams golden in the morning sun. Later, after looking at photos, I named the handsome rascal, Fabio for his golden tresses. The lion soon tires of our attention, rises to his feet and strolls across the road in front of us, disappearing into some bushes a few hundred yards away. In our vehicle, we speculate that there might be females already resting in the leafy foliage because surely, Fabio is too fabulous not to have his own pride.

Fabulous Fabio

Fabulous Fabio

We follow the dry river bed again and see an enormous troop of baboons spread out over the sandy bottom. It is obvious that elephants have passed through here, and the baboons have been combing through the dung the pachyderms have left in their wake.

The baboon troop and sifted through elephant dung

The baboon troop and sifted through elephant dung

Our wandering brings us to a giraffe drinking water at a small pool on the edge of the river. You can imagine how complicated this task is for the long-necked, long-legged animal. It is almost painful to watch as the rangy giraffe spreads its front legs wide so he can get his head low enough to reach the water. Brian tells us that the reason the giraffe snaps its head up quickly after drinking for a short time, is that the giraffe has a kind of warning system that tells it when too much blood is flowing into its head. The giraffe knows to raise its head when it feels pressure in its skull and must quickly pull their head up before they do damage to themselves. Brian explained the cause and effect of excess blood flowing to the giraffe’s head much better than I did, but you get the idea. Because of this blood flow problem, the giraffe must raise and lower his head many times in order to drink its fill.  What an ordeal the poor giraffe must go through just to quench its thirst.

The awkward position giraffe must drink from.

The awkward position giraffe must drink from.

The giraffe spraying water as it lifts up his head quickly

The giraffe spraying water as it lifts up his head quickly

Our drivers pull into an area where we are allowed to leave the vehicles to stretch our legs and use the choo. The problem is the long drops are so nasty at this stop that we women decide to retreat behind a large boulder to answer the call of nature. Hiding behind a tree, boulder or bush is becoming common place because usually there aren’t any restrooms anyway! Aw, you just get used to it and one’s modesty disappears quickly!

There are other tourists here, some eating an early lunch on the jumble of boulders that are adjacent to the mostly dry river. Because the bird’s eye view from the kopjes is occupied, Paul and I walk next to the pile of rocks so we can look down the river channel where an elephant is drinking water from the “well” it has dug with its trunk. We watch as the large beast’s trunk disappears into the sand and then reappears with a trunk full of water which it transfers to its mouth. This female is accompanied by her baby who is having fun running around mom, and generally acting silly. The antics of young elephants, or any baby animal, always make me laugh out loud.

Wahoo, I can run!

Wahoo, I can run!

If you look closely you can see water spilling from the elephants trunk

If you look closely you can see water spilling from the elephants trunk

When Paul and I walk out of the weedy area we have been standing in, Paul finds a couple of small ticks crawling on his arm. Lovely, I don’t find any on me but every little tickle I feel for quite some time causes me to search my skin to make sure the nasty bloodsuckers aren’t crawling on me.

This is a sausage tree with fruit/seeds hanging from the branches

This is a sausage tree with fruit/seeds hanging from the branches

When we get back to where the vehicles are parked, Kevin points out a Black-backed Jackal across the river, trotting through the grass. Vidole Juu, Ngruwe, and Paul find a fallen fruit from the sausage tree near our Rover. They each take turns in holding  the big seed from the sausage tree, comment on how heavy the fruit is and what damage the elongated fruit would do if it hit human, animal, or vehicle when it fell from the tree. There is always something to learn and contemplate on safari!! This was a nice area to stop and relax a bit but it is time to move on down the road.

Our convoy of three is moving right along when Mochie’s vehicle comes to a stop in front of us. After some initial conferring and looking under the hood, Kevin crawls back in our Rover, drives gently into Mochie’s defunct truck and begins to push him. Yikes. The ailing Rover’s engine comes to life after getting the boost but only manages to keep running for a short distance, before sputtering to a stop. The drivers and Brian all pile out of their vehicles and begin to comb over the broken Rover. They are under the hood and Kevin is crawling beneath the vehicle. Brian walks to our truck and asks Ngruwe if he will help them, because Ngruwe has shown prior to this incident that he is mechanical minded. Vidole Juu also leaves the vehicle to see if he can be of help.

Eventually, the way I understand it, the men have found that the switch between the empty diesel tank and the full tank isn’t working, (or was it the return hose?) and they can’t seem to fix the problem. Mechanical stuff makes my eyes glaze over, but I do know that the diesel isn’t being fed from the full tank to the engine. In the end they come and collect empty water bottles and drain diesel from the full tank into the bottles, pouring the siphoned fuel into the empty tank. Once they feel as though they have transferred enough diesel to the empty but good tank to get us to Park Headquarters they crank the engine over and it coughs but starts. There is no game sighting now as our guides drive quickly to the Park Headquarters.DSCF4558

Once we arrive at the working headquarters of the Park, all of us climb out of the trucks, grab a soda or beer, and sit around the tables that are situated outside the office buildings. There is an “elephant proof fence” around the building and yard but we muse at the fact that there is plenty of elephant dung inside this fence, though for the life of us we can’t figure out how the grey beasts managed to get inside! Mochie has driven back to where the Park owned vehicles are kept and soon reemerge with a full tank of diesel in the working tank. I have written in my journal that when asked what the diesel cost to purchase from the Park authorities, Brian told us they were charged eighteen dollars a gallon. Surely I wrote that down wrong, if not someone made a mighty good profit.

Some of our group relaxing at Ruaha Park Headquarters

Some of our group relaxing at Ruaha Park Headquarters

Since Park Headquarters is obviously situated inside Ruaha we can begin looking for wildlife as soon as we board our Rovers. As we drive by one of the out buildings a lone elephant is standing next to it. Just a bit farther down the road a little girl happily waves at us from the doorway of her house as we pass by. Can you imagine this scenario? “Mom can I go outside and play?”, “Sure, honey but watch out for elephants” :).

Your backyard visitor in Ruaha!

Your backyard visitor in Ruaha!

Little girl waving at us as we leave the Headquarters of Ruaha Park

Little girl waving at us as we leave the Headquarters of Ruaha Park

Not much time has passed since we left Park headquarters with our expensive diesel when I see movement along the ridge of a hillock. Asking Kevin to stop, I try to figure out what I have seen. I can’t quite get a fix on the animal but I think it is a male Kudu since the animal is sporting a huge set of horns. Kevin is anxious to move on but I ask him to wait a bit still hoping that I can turn this antelope into a Sable or a Roan antelope instead of a Kudu. Kevin finally says to me with some exasperation that we must go as there are lions near the road up ahead of us. Aha, he had to break the code of silence that exits among guides and actually tell us why we need to rush somewhere! I exclaim “Let’s go” and within minutes we arrive to see a pride of lions on the move.

The Lion Pride when we first saw them. Wow!

The Lion Pride when we first saw them. Wow!

This photo of the lions coming towards us makes my skin tingle!!

This photo of the lions coming towards us makes my skin tingle!!

Our sister vehicles have been watching the Lion pride for a while but we still get in on the excitement of watching the lions move across the bush with a certainty that exudes from the felines that they own this place! The pride has twelve lions in it and this includes two mature males. Kevin tells us that the males are brothers and that is why they are willing to share a pride. The lions are heading for the river and they end up meandering right by our vehicles, hardly giving us a glance. As our guides drive slowly along it is interesting to see that two large females and one of the males break off of the group when they near the river and walk up to high ground that looks over the river. The two females walk to the edge of the bluff and lay down right on the edge of the cliff which gives them a clear view of the surrounding area. The male that split off the main group lies down under a tree not far from the female duo and appears to doze off.

The two sentries watch as their pride members drink from the Ruaha River

The two sentries watch as their pride members drink from the Ruaha River

The main body of the pride that went to the river to drink.

The main body of the pride that went to the river to drink.

The remaining lioness and nearly grown cubs walk to the river and begin to drink. The other male walks to a puddle, lies down and laps his water from it. When the felines finish drinking they walk to the bottom of the bluff directly below where the lioness lookouts are situated and lay down. One of the lionesses has carried a plastic water bottle she found by the river and is having fun chewing on the debris some stupid human left behind. One of the nearly grown cubs decides he wants the noisy toy and takes it from the lioness, which willingly lets him have the bottle.

Playing with the plastic bottle

Playing with the plastic bottle

As I study this group of lion, I decide that they are not faring that well. The lions seem thin compared to the other lions we have seen on this trip so far. I notice one lioness has a blue eye, very likely blind in it. The male that stayed with the main group has an angry red splotch on his side. Is it an injury or a skin condition? So many mouths to feed means they need to have successful kills and a lot of kills. I don’t know how much a mature lion needs to eat to stay healthy but I don’t think these animals are meeting that requirement.

The lioness with the bad eye

The lioness with the bad eye

We drive around to the other side of the lions so we can see the group who are lying down next to the bluff.  I am taking photos of the sleepy group, when suddenly the male and a cub jump to their feet with the cub running up the hill to join the sleeping male and lioness lookouts. One of the lionesses in the group sends an intensive stare in our direction so we look around trying to find what has upset the lions.  It doesn’t take long to see that some fool has gotten out of their car, is hiding behind a bush and taking photos. As the photo below shows, some of the lions had no reaction at all.  I think everyone in our truck is turning bright red with anger, I know I am.  Kevin calls over to the knucklehead and tells him he can’t get out of his car. He looks Kevin’s way and then a woman (his wife?) in the car, tells him he needs to get back in the vehicle. I hate to say it but by her accent they are obviously Americans. It takes my blood pressure awhile to return to normal after this incident to say the least.

I would never want to see a lion staring at me like she was staring at the fool who left his car!

I would never want to see a lion staring at me like she was staring at the fool who left his car!

It is our own lunch time and our guides take us to a beautiful spot above the Ruaha River. There are elephants very near so our drivers place the vehicles in a semi-circle to provide a shield should the elephants get testy. It isn’t necessary because in the end the foraging elephants decide they would rather not share the area with us and vacate the premises.

This baby elephant was having lunch himself.

This baby elephant was having lunch himself.

Paul and I posing at the place we ate lunch.

Paul and I posing at the place we ate lunch.

We continue our drive along the river and we find an abundance of birds, including Fire finch and Blue-capped Cordon-bleu (really that is their name). We watch in wonder as Pied Kingfisher hover over the water as easily as hummingbirds and then plunge like miniature torpedoes into the water, often reappearing with a small fish in their beaks. There are disheveled Speckled Mousebirds in a tangle of brush that appear like they have had one to many drinks, as the funny birds can’t even seem to perch upright.

Speckled Mousebird. they always look half-drunk to me

Speckled Mousebird. they always look half-drunk to me

Pied Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Blue-capped Cordon-bleu birds.

Blue-capped Cordon-bleu birds.

Our vehicle stops to look at some Grant’s gazelle and we end up losing sight of the rest of our group. The men decide they need to “check the tires” so Kevin obligingly stops for them. This is a good time to admit that the first time Kevin got out to “check the tires”; I innocently ask if we have a low tire! Oh go ahead and laugh, everyone else did. Nyama went one better than I, as when the Fearless Four were hiking to Sanje Falls their guide said he was going to look for something to barbeque tonight. Nyama started to follow him off the trail because she wanted to help! Brian called her back and explained that it meant the guy needed some privacy. I know another euphemism we heard by our drivers for answering the call of nature was that they needed to look for medicine in the bush.

Getting back on track, Kevin starts the motor and starts to leave while the guys are still “checking tires”. It is just reflex on our part, but we women tell Kevin the guys are still outside which makes him start laughing at our concern. Even the men admit when they return to the Rover, that for a moment they too wondered what was happening. About this time, Mochie begins to plaintively call Kevin’s name over the two-way radio. Kevin begins driving quite fast and makes a turn which leads us to the river again. Whoops, appears we went the wrong way so Kevin turns around and speeds down the road turning the opposite direction when we get back to where we were previously. Hmm, this is mighty reminiscent of Mikumi.

What a beautiful young male leopard

What a beautiful young male leopard

When we finally find our companions they have been watching a leopard that I believe Bahati Njema spotted. The good news is that the leopard is still here, and walks directly towards our Rover, crossing the road in front of us. The handsome male enters the tall grass and walks a few hundred feet into the natural cover. The leopard sits down and despite all the noise coming from the vehicles, honestly the drivers are shouting back and forth to each other, is concentrating on some impalas that are grazing in the distance. The young leopard begins to walk towards the antelope when he suddenly drops to his belly and just disappears. How does such a big cat do that? We know when he reaches or gets close to the impalas because we can hear the alarm snorts, and the antelope take off running. It looks like the leopard struck out although since we can’t see him, and the fleeing impalas have disappeared from sight, we can’t be certain that he didn’t manage to catch lunch.

Scouting out the grazing impalas before he begins stalking them.

Scouting out the grazing impalas before he begins stalking them.

We can't decide what is on this leopards neck. Stickers of some sort?

We can’t decide what is on this leopards neck. Stickers of some sort?

Moving on, the guides drive us down to the river where we are allowed to get out and wade in the Ruaha if we want to. Brian and several others do take their shoes off and slosh around in the river. I prefer to dip my fingers in the Ruaha River because I remember all the caution antelope take when they go to the river to drink due to crocodiles!

Wading in the Ruaha River with a grazing hippo in the background. Paul's photo

Wading in the Ruaha River with a grazing hippo in the background. Paul’s photo

What a day we have had in Ruaha! When we arrive at camp I realize how tired I am at the end of our all day game drive. My arms ache from hanging on for dear life as we bounced down miles of dusty roads, and there are sore spots on my side, from constantly bumping into the side of the Rover. Believe me this is a small price to pay for the wonders we have seen so far!

Tonight we talk about how we might have missed seeing some of the animals if our timing would have been off just a few minutes. What if we had been a few minutes later getting out of camp, we would have missed seeing Fabio. What if Mochie’s Rover had not broken down, would we have already driven by the area where the pride of lions showed up? It is quite possible we would have missed the lion pride on the move, without the hour delay of our breakdown. What if we wouldn’t have gotten lost, oh wait we would have been right with our fellow safarists when they saw the leopard from the beginning. Still we wouldn’t have had the excitement of speeding down the road, wondering what was waiting for us when we arrived! What a day!  I think I have written that phrase in several blogs already!

Next blog, Flying to Selous Part 10, Nancy

Enjoy some more Lion photos

One of the males of the Pride

One of the males of the Pride

The lions walked within a few feet of us as they made their way to the river.

The lions walked within a few feet of us as they made their way to the river.

Day two in Ruaha National Park, Part 8

Ruaha day two, part 8

A photo in Ruaha National Park to start the blog.

A photo in Ruaha National Park to start the blog.

 

Last night after supper a portion of our group sat around the bon fire regaling one another about the events of our interesting day and helping Nyama and Ngruwe compile a list of events for their journal of the past two days.   There is something rustling the leaves of the trees that we are sitting under and occasionally a bit of debris hits the ground or us, as an unknown creature feeds overhead. Brian shines his torch into the tree canopy and a shadow flits briefly into the light. Bats! Whatever is hiding in the trees these bats want it, as they appear to deliberately brush the leaves and branches with their wings. Ngruwe finds out that the bats are dropping more than crumbs as he is the recipient of a well-aimed bat poo bomb. The rest of us escape the bat droppings as far as we know. If I recall correctly, Ngruwe and Nyama discover in the morning that the bats were visiting the tree next to their tent last night and left bat crap all over the laundry that they had hanging on the line. I think they had to rewash all of their clothes!

When Paul and I return to our tent for the night, we have just started to get ready for bed when a shrill call splits the air. We look at each other and simultaneously say “what was that”? We sit for a few seconds waiting for a repeat call which doesn’t come. Paul wonders if this is a bush baby as it sounds similar to Brian’s mimicry of a bush baby. Yes, Brian can do a good imitation of many African animals, you should hear his Hadada Ibis (its a bird) call! Paul decides to step back out into the night and search the trees close to the tent for the small mammal, but he fails to find the owner of the night splitting shrieks.

Settling into our beds, I am just drifting off when I hear the sound rolling down the river channel like muted thunder. I whisper, Paul do you hear it, and he answers that he has been listening to the lion for a couple of minutes. We listen as the male lion harrumphs in short coughs, broadcasting to any would be usurpers, that they had better stay out of his territory or else. The lion finally falls silent and I go to sleep smiling because that is the best lullaby one can wish for when sleeping in a canvas tent in the African bush.

I am up early, too early for the hot water that the staff brings around to our tents in the morning for washing up. I don’t mind, since the briskness of the cold water I splash on my face, snaps my sleepy eyes to wide open status. I’m definitely ready to see what might be in the dry river bed a few yards from our tent.  One of the camp crew is sitting by the fire, a red blanket, wrapped around his shoulders as he stares out into the breaking dawn, while a blackened, cast iron kettle simmers over the cook fire. Other staffers are setting tea bags and coffee on the small table by the dining tent along with silver thermos jugs of hot water. I pour steaming water into a cup containing a tea bag, and carry the beverage with me as I walk to the river channel. There are bushes and tall, yellow grass lining the edge of the sandy river bottom. Mindful of how a lion would blend into the dried grass, I step cautiously into the dry river bed.  I stand still and peer into the nearby bushes and grass before I take another step. I follow this cautious pattern for a few steps, when Bacari suddenly appears. I guess he decides to scout for me since he walks with me until we are in a more open part of the river. After looking around, Bacari seems satisfied that it is safe and he leaves me in solitude in the early dawn.

Last night I watched the splendor of the full moon rising over Ruaha National Park. This morning I get to watch the full moon drop below the horizon and then I watch as a vivid red sun rises within minutes of the moon set. Talk about doubly dramatic.

A red sunrise over Ruaha

A red sunrise over Ruaha

As I am enjoying the colorful  end of the night and the start of the day, I see a small creature hurrying through the golden grass not far from where I am standing. What is that animal?  I set my teacup on the ground and ready my camera, in hopes for a photo. For a minute I think I am looking at a skunk because the animal is black with a lighter back, but it is too big bodied, plus the animal’s whole back is grey, and besides that I’m in Tanzania! I get so excited while trying to train my camera on the scurrying critter that I kick my teacup over, which scares the animal making it reverse course and  run into heavier cover. Wow, some wildlife photographer I am! I did snap one photo of my mystery guest, but I moved my camera so the animal is an unidentifiable, blurry, blackish, blob. When I describe the animal and show the hopeless photo to Kevin, he doesn’t hesitate in identifying the animal as a honey badger. Super, I have never seen a honey badger before so what a great way to start the day! Brian informs me later that there is a superstition in Africa that if you see a honey badger you will have good luck. He also informs me that the Honey Badger is a vicious fighter if cornered! Thank goodness the badger had plenty of room to get away.

I didn't get the honey badger but this Saddle billed- Stork landed  later.

I didn’t get the honey badger but this Saddle billed- Stork landed later.

This morning our fearless leader, Brian, will be riding in our vehicle, which is great as he is a fountain of information on the wildlife and the bush, plus his spotting ability is terrific. As far as our regular group of six, when it comes to spotting wildlife we all do pretty well, but I will give the “eagle eye” award to Ngruwe. The man seems to be able to see animals near or far, moving or motionless, it’s uncanny, and I’m darned glad he is in our Rover. I admit that I will usually see an animal if it moves but I have a tougher time seeing a sedentary animal, which is why believe it or not, I can overlook giraffe. Giraffe often stand perfectly motionless under or next to a tree and I guess my eyes are fooled into thinking they are a tall tree with four trunks :).

It’s time to go and we women climb up on the seats, grab onto a part of the frame of the pop up roof, and hold on for dear life. It is rough riding on the roads of Ruaha and you better keep a firm grip or you might end up on the floor. The men hang on to the black piping too, even when they are standing on the floor because you can lose your balance quickly.  Brian often sits on the flat platform at the back of the Rover and seems to get along just fine, but honestly, I don’t know how he does it.

Brian perched on top of the Rover, this was actually in Mikumi

Brian perched on top of the Rover, this was actually in Mikumi

We come upon a covey of Black-faced Sand grouse next to a dry creek, dusting themselves in the sand, which certainly accentuates the bird’s name! They are beautiful birds and seem to have little fear of us, although most of them take flight once we drive by them. Moving on through the park we see Vervet monkeys and graceful giraffe. We have a close-up view of Greater Kudu as they stand behind a screen of brush and the size of the antelope’s ears is astonishing. The better to hear you with indeed. It is easy to see how the dusky Kudu gained the name “grey ghosts” of Africa as they can quietly melt into the underbrush and become nearly impossible to see.

Black-Faced Sand Grouse

Black-Faced Sand Grouse

Greater Kudu. Look at the size of those ears!

Greater Kudu. Look at the size of those ears!

Kevin and Brian are unsure of the identity of a starling they find, and after searching and comparing the bird to plates in the bird guide, they come to the conclusion it is the Ashy Starling, a bird that should not be in this part of Tanzania. Alright. Finding a bird that has strayed out of its normal range is always exciting.

Soon after finding the Ashy Starling, we see a pair of golden-colored mongoose. As Brian and Kevin search through the mammal book, their first conclusion is that these are Yellow mongoose. Kevin isn’t comfortable with this identification because the Yellow mongoose shouldn’t be here either. Kevin gets his smart phone out and runs a google search on the Slender mongoose which does reside in Ruaha. Sure enough, there are photos on his phone showing various colors of the Slender mongoose including a yellowish one. I blow up the photo I took of these mongoose to compare it with the picture on google and unfortunately, it is almost a direct match. Phooey, I was hoping for two species in one day that normally aren’t found in Ruaha. Oh well, the blonde, Slender mongooses are strikingly pretty, and fun to watch as they scurry on their way. In this same area there is a pile of boulders where Rock Hyrax are sunning themselves on the jumble of grey rocks. Upon closer scrutiny, we also see lizards crawling around on the kopjes.

One of the Slender Mongoose

One of the Slender Mongoose

We have lost sight of our sister vehicles, but what else is new:). As we jounce down the road, I catch sight of something moving through the tall grass, on the left side of the road. I call out, “Stop Kevin, there is something moving out there”. Basically, the ears and the back of the creature are all that is visible, and at first I think it might be a jackal, but Brian soon identifies the animal as a Serval Cat! How lucky is that? Paul and I have seen Servals on just one other safari, so we are delighted to have another encounter with the spotted cat. We never get a clear look at the Serval although the small cat did stop once and peeked over the top of the grass at us before strolling on, eventually disappearing into a brushy area. Paul pats me on the shoulder, adding a “good job Nancy” while Brian congratulates me on a good spot, along with kudos from the rest of our companions. O.K., I admit that I am beaming a little bit:).

Kevin catches us up with the other two vehicles, where our friends are watching a lioness under a tree. There is supposedly a male lion too, but for the life of me I can’t see it. Oh how quickly one is humbled on safari! I get plenty of helpful directions from the others in our vehicle, but it is finally Ngruwe’s explanation that the big male is lying flat on his side and I must watch for his flanks rising and falling as the lion breaths. I stare into the space that has been pointed out to me, and finally I do see the slight movement of a flank as the Lion breathes, which helps me see the faint outline of the recumbent lion. There is more proof that this really is a lion when he shakes his head slightly and his fringe of dark mane rises above the grass. Good grief, I wonder who the person was that found the male lion in the lead vehicles? I forgot to ask them who the eagle eye was when we returned to camp. Talk about a terrific spot!

Lioness

Lioness

Our convoy has arrived at the Ruaha River and with water comes lots of bird life. We stop to watch two elegant Crowned Crane aptly named due to the feathery crest on their heads that is in the shape of a crown or an unfurled fan, golden no less . Among the many species we find on the river are Wooly-necked Stork, Little Bee-eaters, Yellow Wattled Plover and egrets.

Crowned Crane- a gorgeous bird

Crowned Crane- a gorgeous bird

As we continue our bumpy, dusty route near the river’s edge in this awesome National Park, Kevin halts the Rover so we can look at a Martial Eagle that is standing in a pool of water. As we are looking at the Eagle and the beautiful vista that is spread out in front of us, Brian asks us to closely look at the Martial Eagle. He points out that the Eagle appears to be missing part of its right leg as there is space between the water and the leg. Sure enough, there is a little gap and we all muse aloud saying things like, how can it survive because surely an Eagle couldn’t kill prey with only one leg. Suddenly the rest of the Eagles’ right leg appears emerging from his fluffy, belly feathers.  Once the Eagle plops his feathered right leg into the water, he raises his left leg up and abracadabra he appears to have lost the bottom half of this leg!   What can you do but laugh at yourself after being fooled by the “now you see it now you don’t” trick by the Eagle magician!

Admit it this Martial Eagle appears to be missing the lower half of his right leg

Admit it this Martial Eagle appears to be missing the lower half of his right leg

We encounter a pair of Ground Hornbills talking to each other as they stroll through a wooded area. Their deep booming sounds remind me somewhat of the oompah sounds of a tuba. However, maybe a better likeness of their call is when Ngruwe blows across the top of a glass bottle and comes close to the hollow sound the big birds were making. There is a giraffe standing nearby, looking curiously at the musical two bird band as they march by him. As I write this I can hear and see this scene in my mind’s eye as plain as if it were happening now. I don’t know why this had such an impact on me but it surely did.

One of the musical Ground Horn Bills, I don't know why I don't have a photo of the pair

One of the musical Ground Horn Bills, I don’t know why I don’t have a photo of the pair

Our vehicles stops to admire a group of baby impala that someone in our group (I’m sorry I can’t remember who) aptly dubs an impala preschool. The silky little ones are congregated near a dead tree and there are two lizards atop the tree, heads lifted high, as if they are the school monitors.

Impala preschool

Impala preschool

Lizards on the dead tree that the baby impalas were under

Lizards on the dead tree that the baby impalas were under

Continuing driving along the edge of the Ruaha River we watch Impala and Kudu cautiously approach the water to drink. Both antelope species warily eye the river’s edge and when they do lower their heads to the water, Kudu and impalas alike keep their legs stretched back in a position that will allow them to spring away from a lurking crocodile if one tries to attack the vulnerable animals while they drink.

See how they are stretched away from the water when they drink?

See how they are stretched away from the water when they drink?

Our vehicles stop on a bluff overlooking the Ruaha River and we watch a parade of elephant as they wade into the water, first drinking and then crossing to the other side. There is a group of hippopotamuses downstream from the elephants where the babies have crawled up on the adult’s backs in order to stay above water.

Elephants crossing the river

Elephants crossing the river

Baby Hippopotamus using the backs of the adults to stay above water

Baby Hippopotamus using the backs of the adults to stay above water

Moving on, the lead vehicles have come to a halt due to a trio of elephants standing alongside the road our drivers want to go down. The big female has fanned her ears in warning at our companions, due to the fact that one of the members of this trio is a tiny baby, which according to Kevin, is at most two or three weeks old. Kevin watches the elephants for a bit and evidently doesn’t think the stay away signal given by the mother is serious and drives within a few feet of the pachyderms. It appears that our excellent guide was correct in his assessment, as the three wrinkled animals walk placidly in front of our Rover and into the grassy plain on the other side. Gosh darn, a baby elephant looks so miniscule next to a full-grown elephant you wonder how they keep from getting stepped on or knocked over.

Crossing in front of our Rover

Crossing in front of our Rover

2 week old baby elephant dwarfed by her mother

2 week old baby elephant dwarfed by her mother

We cross the river after our elephant encounter and watch in amusement as two male giraffe chase a young female. The duo will dash after the uninterested female for a short distance but she always manages to stay a step ahead of them. The three will slow to a walk but once the two males get too close for comfort for the female, they are off and running again.

As the day draws to an end our last encounter is with a troop of baboon. The baboon scout is perched in the crotch of a tree high above where the members of his troop are sifting through elephant dung, searching for seeds that passed through the elephant’s digestive system intact. I know, not a pretty picture but at least nothing is going to waste (no pun intended) with this baboon tactic. The scout seems less than excited with his guard detail, and I swear when we begin to snap photos of him, he goes into model mode. The Yellow baboon gives us his left profile, than his right profile, the sultry over the shoulder look which does no good because we aren’t behind him. Something moves our primate model to lift his foot up and smell it, or maybe he is just showing off his dexterity. In addition to getting some excellent photos of our baboon subject he also makes us laugh.DSCF4495

The posing baboon

The posing baboon

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As we prepare to leave the dung foraging baboons, a young male sneaks up behind a female who is scrutinizing a handful of elephant poop, and mates with her. The “what the hell” look on the poor females face along with the fact that the young male is looking guiltily about, makes us howl with laughter.  I’m sure the young baboon is fearful about what the dominate male will do to him, if he catches his subordinate in this seditious act! The Big Guy would likely sink his large canine teeth into the insolent underling and banish him from the clan (I really don’t know that this would happen)! In defense of the little male, the female has announced her readiness for mating via a swollen pink bottom which you couldn’t miss if you wanted too! The females, I’m available advertisement, was obviously too tempting for the young baboon to ignore.  I include the photo I took of the mating baboons so you can see for yourself the look of surprise on the unsuspecting females face, and note that the cheeky male appears to be looking about to see if trouble, in the form of a male twice his size, teeth bared, is heading his way. Hopefully this photo will make you laugh too (I hope not offend anyone).

Although this adult male wasn't part of the troop I write about, it shows you how big they are.

Although this adult male wasn’t part of the troop I write about, it shows you how big they are.

Mating baboons

Mating baboons

So this wonderful day has come to an end. Somewhere in between all the wildlife encounters we went back to camp for lunch, and I note in my journal that we were an hour late. Oops, poor Christophe, I know I get irritated if Paul and Randall are a few minutes late for lunch and I have modern means to keep food warm. Christophe must try to keep lunch edible over hot coals or a wood fire. I also note in my journal that we dined on beef stew and macaroni and it was delicious.

Next blog, an all-day game drive in Ruaha. Nancy

Close up of the forked stripes

Close up of the forked stripes

The zebra on the left has some unusual white stripes

The zebra on the left has some unusual white stripes